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Herb,
You've already gotten responses pointing to the VTR site. Dan Masters has
updated his instructions (he said the site had an error in it, but I've
never found the error) and sent me a copy. I've included this newer version
with this email. I have converted to a Bosch alternator in my TR3B. As
Randall suggested, I wanted to still have the original control box and
wiring on the firewall. What I did was pick up a spare control box for cheap
(like $5-$10) and remove the insides. I then was free to use the connectors
to make all of the wiring work, and even leave the ground attached. It
basically looks like all is normal (unless you look too close and see some
extra wires coming out to a separate harness that hides under the normal
one).
If you've got any questions, let me know.
Dave Moag
62 TR3B
77 Spitfire
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-triumphs@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-triumphs@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Herb Neumann
> Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 1999 9:08 AM
> To: 'triumphs@autox.team.net'
> Subject: Alternator Conversion TR 3
>
>
>
> Hi all, I'm new to this list, I've been on the TR7,8 list for about 4
> years. I started to drive my 1960 TR 3A this year and am
> curious if anyone
> on the list has converted from a Generator to an Alternator.
> My TR3 has
> been converted to negative ground.
> I would like to use a GM alternator with built in regulator,
> Model 10SI,
> used in the 70's and 80's. Anyone done this? Any helpful hints on
> mounting and pulley and belt?
> Thanks.
> Triumphfully yours Herb Neumann Concord CA 1960 TR 3 A
>
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Content-Disposition: attachment
From: <DANMAS@aol.com>
To: <moag@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Converting TR3 to Alternator
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1999 19:02:43 -0700
charset="iso-8859-1"
Importance: Normal
ELECTRICAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR REPLACING THE GENERATOR WITH A GM ALTERNATOR IN
A
TR2, 3, 3A, or 3B
(Assuming previous conversion to negative ground)
METHOD ONE (Utilizing existing wiring):
-----------------------------
AT THE CONTROL BOX:
Look for the following wires:
Black (2): Disconnect and tie together, with an insulated connector.
Retain ground connection.
---------------------------------------------
Smaller Yellow:
Yellow/Green: Disconnect and tie together, with an insulated
connector.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Larger Yellow:
Brown/White:
Brown/Blue: Using a large, solder type butt connector, connect all 3
of these wires together, and insulate with heat shrink tubing. Be aware -
this connection carries ALL of the current for the car, so it must be a good
connection. You do not want a high resistance here. Run the larger wire into
one end of the connector, and the other two into the other end.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
------------------
Remove the control box and, please, save for a friend who is a purist!
AT THE OLD GENERATOR:
You will find two wires, Yellow/Green and Yellow. Disconnect them from the
generator and leave in place. Remove and save the generator.
AT THE NEW ALTERNATOR:
On the side of the case, you will find two spade lugs recessed into the
body.
The lugs are identified on the body of the alternator as 1 & 2. You will
need
a plug (connector) for these. These plugs are readily available at an auto
supply store, usually in a package hanging on the pegboard display rack in
the electrical section, and usually identified as an alternator extension
connector, or something similar. If not, the counter man will know what you
are looking for. There will be two short wires already connected to the
plug.
On the back of the case, you will find an insulated screw terminal.
Connect the Yellow/Green wire to the plug wire going to the # 1 terminal,
using a butt connector, or splice, solder, and insulate with heat shrink
tubing. The plug is keyed, and will only go in one way. Connect the other
lead from the plug (#2) to the screw terminal on the back of the alternator
case, along with the larger Yellow lead from the original harness, using
ring
terminals. Both the larger Yellow wire and the wire from terminal #2 connect
to the screw terminal.
Disconnect the ground lead from the battery before proceeding with any
electrical work, and,
of course, follow all the rules of proper wiring practices. I recomend using
solder connections, and covering them with heat shrink tubing, but crimp
type
connectors will work quite well also. You will need butt connectors for
attaching to the plug wires, and a large ring connector for the screw
terminal. If you would prefer not to have splices, you can remove the
terminals, and the wire, from the plug. Using new terminals of the proper
type, connect directly to the existing wires, and insert the terminals into
the plug. New terminals can be purchased from British Wiring, (20449 Ithaca,
Olympia Fields, IL 60461, 708-481-9050) and The Wire Works (167 Keystone
Road, Chester, PA 19013, 800-292-1940), among others.
You are finished!
There are two things, however, to be aware of:
1) Triumph did funny things when they built these cars, so your car might
not
match the configuration above, and it may well have been modified by a
previous owner.
2) You now have an alternator capable of more than twice the output of your
old generator, but the wiring capacity has not changed. If you add heavy
loads, driving lights, high power stereo, etc, you can exceed the capacity
of
the wires. Also, If you let the battery discharge completely, the alternator
can possibly recharge with enough current to overload the wires. If your
battery is completely discharged, recharge it with a charger rather than
push
starting the car and letting the alternator recharge it. If you must do
this,
keep a close watch on the ammeter, checking for overcharging. Under all
other
usages, the wiring should not present a problem. The main advantage of the
higher output is the ability to provide a higher charge rate at low RPM and
idle. The standard loads on the TR2 through 3A do not require a higher
charge
current at normal engine speeds, so the alternator will not be called on to
provide enough current to overload the wires.
METHOD TWO (Upgraded wiring):
If you wish to upgrade the wiring to take advantage of the higher output, it
is really quite simple.
--------------------------------------------
AS ABOVE, EXCEPT:
Cut off both ends of the larger Yellow wire - at the old generator and at
the
control box - as close to the wire harness wrapping as possible (or, unwrap
the harness, and remove the wire all-together). Connect the Brown/Blue and
the Brown /White wires together at the control box.
Instead of connecting the larger Yellow wire to the new alternator, add a
new
wire of at least 10 Ga (8 Ga preferred). Connect one end to the screw
terminal at the alternator, and the other end to the terminal on the starter
solenoid where the main cable from the battery and a Brown wire are now
connected. Leave the existing Brown wire at the solenoid connected. Very
carefully route this new wire alongside the existing wiring harness, and use
cable ties liberally for support.
Now, the alternator can provide full charging current without worrying about
burning up the wiring.
There is one downside to this approach: The charge indicating light will
work
as before, but the ammeter will only read discharge. It will register the
current being drawn by the various loads on the car, but will not indicate
if
the alternator is charging.
If you wish to add extra loads, such as a high power sound system, connect
them directly to the battery, properly fused, of course. Loads connected
directly to the battery will not be indicated on the ammeter.
OPTIONS:
--------------------------
There are several other ways to do the replacement. For example, you may
wish
to use a larger range ammeter, or you may wish to replace the ammeter with a
voltmeter. If so, contact me with your preferences, and I will try to
provide
the appropriate instructions.
You may also choose to use a different alternator, rather than the GM unit.
If so, it will be wired very similarly to the above, only the connections at
the alternator itself will be different.
****************************************************************
Unfortunately, I don't have enough data to give information for a really
neat
usage of the control box with any degree of confidence. I would recomend
that
you just disconnect all the internal connections from the screw terminals,
and use external jumpers to make all the proper connections at the box. Just
use short pieces of wire with the correct terminals on them. The
instructions
above call for connecting two wires together, and then three wires together,
and the box has five terminals, so it works out just right. Use one piece of
wire for the two connections, and a piece of wire in a "W" shape, with three
terminals, to make the three wire connection.
Using appropriate color/style wire, it will be hard to tell it didn't come
from the factory that way. Another possibility is to use a fairly thick
piece
of copper to make the jumpers. That way, they would lie up close to the box,
and might not even be seen by any but the most inquisitive viewer.
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