If I put it in front of the flange, then it has a up angle into the cyclinder,
rubs the
very top.
levilevi@home.com wrote:
> My Bentley and Haynes manuals for the TR6 show it in front of the flange
> plate (between the engine and tranny). Both my TR6's have it in front
> of the flange plate and they shift just fine. I wonder why the 3 is
> different?
>
> Bud
> 71TR6 CC57365
> 71TR6 CC65446
> 66TR4A CTC57806
>
> Fred Thomas wrote:
> >
> > The slave cyclinder on my "3' is ="BEHIND"= the flange plate, or the bolts
>go thru
> > the plate & then into the slave cyc.
> >
> > Bud Rolofson wrote:
> >
> > > Eric,
> > >
> > > I used the Bentley manual when placing the slave cylinder through the
>flange
> > > attached to the transmission. It shows the slave cylinder with its bolt
>holes
> > > behind the flange (in other words, it shows the slave cylinder as having
>been
> > > put through the flange hole from the rear of the car).
> > >
> > > >>>>That is correct.
> > >
> > > Based on several comments from listers, I have given up my thoughts that
> > > this might simply be a system bleeding problem.
> > >
> > > >>>>Don't give up on that idea yet. If you bleed the slave cylinder when
>it is
> > > mounted it can hold a tiny bit of air in the part of the cylinder that is
>above
> > > the bleed screw. Unbolt the the slave cylinder and bleed it so that the
>bleed
> > > screw is at the VERY top. I think I did this by loosening the bottom
>bolt and
> > > taking out the top bolt so I could turn it. A small bit of air CAN make a
> > > difference.
> > >
> > > Several of you havementioned that the slave cylinder's bolt plate should
>sit in
> > > front of the transmission flange.
> > >
> > > >>>>That is correct.
> > >
> > > Others have mentioned an adjustable slave cylinder push rod that should
>solve
> > > the problem.
> > >
> > > >>>>TR6's don't come with them but I've seen one made that works like the
>ones
> > > on earlier TRs. You cut the rod off the slave rod and drill and tap hole
>in the
> > > remaining U-shaped piece. Use a long grade 8 bolt (I forget the length
>but
> > > you'll have to go to a fastener store to get a long enough one, approx.
>6-8
> > > inchs) for the rod and bolt it to the U-shaped piece and you have an
>adjustable
> > > slave rod. You can also add a spring to keep the TOB from the clutch to
>add to
> > > it's longevity and/or don't always sit with the clutch engaged at stop
>lights
> > > (cause you're spinning the TOB). Put it in neutral.
> > >
> > > 2) If the slave cylinder is attached with it's bolt plate in front of the
> > > transmission flange, the push rod doesn't seem to want to meet up the
>clutch
> > > throw lever. Bentley's shows the slave cylinder bolt plate toward the
>rear of
> > > the car, but Moss shows it toward the front.
> > >
> > > >>>>The bolt plate goes between the engine and the tranny.
> > >
> > > 3) I don't seem to have any adjustment at the clutch pedal itself. After
> > > rebuilding the clutch master cylinder, I also know that there is no
> > > adjustment at the pedal push rod that goes into the clutch master
>cylinder.
> > >
> > > >>>>Clutches are basically non-adjustable.
> > >
> > > 4) All the manuals state in bold letters that the slave cylinder should be
> > > attached to the clutch throw lever in the middle hole. This I have done.
> > >
> > > >>>>Middle hole is for TR6's. I think Saloons use the top hole and the
>bottom
> > > hole is for Stag's, but I could have those reversed.
> > >
> > > Bud
> > > 71TR6 CC57365
> > > 71TR6 CC65446
> > > TR4A CTC57806
> > > .
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