I'll check in on this subject to say I thoroughly agree with Dan EXCEPT :
I used to work for a company that installed minicomputer systems onboard
seismic survey ships. To do their survey, these ships set off the
equivalent of about a ton of dynamite, 30-50 feet from the stern, at 5-10
second intervals for days on end. The whole ship shook at every 'shot'.
Failed electrical connections were very common, both due to vibration and
to corrosion (all that salt air). And, the failures were about 2:1 more
common with crimped joints. These were professionally made crimps, with a
ratcheting type crimp tool. As part of final inspection at our plant, they
had to pass the 'pull-out' test, where several pounds of force were applied
to the connector.
I've been using mostly soldered joints on all my cars, including several
TR3As, for 30 years. I can't recall a single solder joint failing, that
wasn't clearly defective in some way. (Nicking the wire when stripping it,
and failing to clean old wire adequately are my most common faults.) But,
I frequently wind up redoing the crimped joints with solder. YMMV
To the lister who asked how to clean old wire : the best method I've found
is to splay the wire out against a solid surface, and brush one-way with a
brass 'toothbrush'. After one side is shiny, turn the wire 90 degrees and
repeat.
I use 'No-Corrode' flux and good quality (Kester) rosin-core solder. Be
sure to stay away from the 'lead-free' stuff sold for plumbing (at least in
the US). IMO it is much more difficult to work with.
Randall
On Tuesday, July 20, 1999 7:51 AM, DANMAS@aol.com [SMTP:DANMAS@aol.com]
wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> Here's my 2 cents worth on this subject:
>
> SOLDERED VERSUS CRIMPED CONNECTIONS
>
<lots of good advice snipped>
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