Scott
You CAN remove the o-ring, adjusting screw and the star clip fairly easily.
Take the needle out of the air piston and get a nice smooth punch (don't use a
drill bit or you may scar the sides of the piston). The punch, or a metal rod
if you have it, should be close to the size of the hole but doesn't have to be
perfect. If the punch is tapered make sure enough of the punch will push the
stuff out the top of the piston without getting stuck in the hole. Put the
punch in the air piston and rap the punch on your bench. It takes a little
force but not to worry it will come out, just get a little more aggressive with
your raps. The fun part is getting the star clip back in and flat, but that is
just a matter of messing with it until it's straight and snug against the
adjusting screw.
Good Luck
Bud
71TR6 CC57365
71TR6 CC65446
TR4A CTC57806
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Subject: ZS Damper Oil Leak
Author: scott suhring <suhring@lancnews.infi.net>
Date: 07/18/1999 8:28 PM
Sounds like the excitement for the VTR is gearing up. Wish I could
be attending, but too close for the annual treak to the Outer Banks
and TRF Summer party.
Anyway, worked on the carbs this weekend to resolve a few issues (all
of which are taken care of except one). As some of you may recall, I
posted
a while back about my rear carb (ZS 175 CD-2 with adjustable needle)
losing the damper oil to the point of needing to fill it up each time
I went out for a drive. I pulled the piston and removed the needle.
Replaced the plastic seal with the after market "o" ring from TRF's
rebuild kit. Put all back together and filed up damper last night.
This morning the oil had leaked out again. Wanting to see what was
going on, removed the piston again and set in a small Mayo jar so
the lip rested on the top and allowed the piston and needle to hang
in jar. Filed up the shaft with oil and watched. Yup, got a slow leak
coming from the seal and if I set the damper top on, thus increasing
preasure from the plunger, it increased. Just out of curriosity, did
the same with the front piston, which also has the "o" ring and
it held fine.
I have double and tripple checked the "o" ring for proper seating
and can't see anything wrong.
Could the adjusting screw, which has a "o" ring seal around the screw
be going bad, thus allowing too much oil down to the needle head and
putting too much preasure on the "o" ring for it to do its job? The
Haynes manual says the srew is non-removable but I noticed you can
buy a replacement part through TRF. Anyone replace the adjusting
screw and securing clip, and if so, how is this done?
I am a bit baffled at this point and any fresh ideas (correct would even
be better) would be much appreciated.
Scott Suhring
Elizabethtown, PA
'70 TR6
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