Andy,
you are indeed correct.
Frank (and other interested parties):
I successfully did this on a fresh motor just last week and here is my
trick...
1. Go to Haynes or Bentley and look at the photo showing correct
orientation of drive dog slot at #1 tdc, firing. It is in a 2 o'clock
orientation.
2. Set motor in #1 tdc, firing.
3. Remove distributor, etc. The cast iron base must be removed to get at
the drive gear also.
4. Remove drive gear. Finger in the hole, magnet, whatever. It will be
oily and a bit difficult as it must rotate ccw as it is removed.
*** *** ****
5. Fit distributor and drive gear together. Offer up to near the motor.
Turn the gear (and thus the rotor) until it is pointing to where you want
#1. This <could> be anywhere, but so long as you must contend with the tach
drive pointing just outboard of the manual fuel pump, (n/a if it is blanked
off and missing - I recommend this upgrade, BTW), the rotor should point at
about 7 or 8 o clock. Separate components and note orientation of drive
dog. This is how it must be when FULLY installed.
6. I suspect dog is on the 2 oclock axis. If so, roatae ccw to about
"noon" and sit gear down in place. It will, by magic, rotate cw to about 2
o clock. This orientation should match the photo in the manual.
***
7. Fit distributor pinch plate (if seaprated from cast base), and insert
distributor. Make sure pinch plate is very loose. Rotate rotor while
pushing down lightly. At one point (and only one point) it will engage and
drop fully home. The rotor should again be pointing to about 7 or 8 o
clock.
8. Turn on ignition. Set timing to about 15 btdc (too much for running,
only for test clearnaces). Set up test lite for doing ignition timing.
Now, rotate distributor until points open. Turn off ignition and snug up
the pinch plate.
9. Test fit tach cable. It should run, almost straight, outboard of the
fuel pump, if fitted. If correct, re-time ignition as your car expects it
to be and tighten clamp fully. If not, go back to # 4 and move the gear one
tooth one way or the other as required. You do not need to fully remove the
gear.
10. Note which lead would be the new #1. Remove it from the cap so as to
avoid confusion.
Firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4, ccw, always on a 6 cyl TR (indeed any inline
6, FYI). Fit # 1 lead (may be a different wire than before depending on
wire set installed, use your judgement) and proceed ccw until done. Test
run motor.
I have 2 notes, though. First, there is a lot of oil in the vicinity thrown
upward from the oil pump. This is good and necessary, but also means that
gasket is important. Make sure you seal it up again, silicone applied
correctly is sufficient to replace paper (I know, there is a tolerance,
guys but have never had a problem in this area with my fix). Second,
unless you wish to "manitain originality", there is little point in spending
this hour's work. you note that the wires also move 180 degrees from their
position. Big deal. As long as you remember the firing order, and remove
the #1 lead from the cap end and all the others from the plug end, you can
not get the #1 position mixed up.
Beware that some "mechanics" who would only beleive "the book" might get
confused by your different setup. Of course, any LBC mechanic who has not
seen this problem before cannot really be an LBC mechanic. HOWEVER, BEWARE
THE JAGUAR MECHANIC!!!!! Jag 6 cylinder cars, and ONLY Jag's, call #1 cyl
the cyl AT THE FIREWALL. Maybe a Jag guy did your last setup? (BTW, this
is more than just trivia, it is a strange truth that has caught me, and my
grey haired English-from-England LBC mechanic out before.)
Dave T
Winnipeg
From: Andrew Mace <amace@unix2.nysed.gov>
To: Bandre Frank Contractor AMC/SCP <Frank.Bandre@scott.af.mil>
Cc: 'triumphs@autox.team.net' <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, July 02, 1999 6:44 AM
Subject: Re: TR6 distributor
>
>On Fri, 2 Jul 1999, Bandre Frank Contractor AMC/SCP wrote:
>
>> When the distributor on my 76 TR6 was replaced after the engine was
rebuilt,
>> it was put in 180 degrees out. Right now, the number one spark plug wire
is
>> where numbe six should be and all the others are also out of place. I
plan
>> to use the long weeked to fix this. I plan to simple remove the two
bolts
>> that attach the clamping plate to the engine block, lift the distributor
>> out, turn the shaft 180 degrees, reinsert the distributor, and reattach
the
>> bolts. I will then switch the spark plug wires. This should prevent the
>> timing from being moved too far.
>>
>> Question is: Is this the right way to do this?
>
>I don't think so. ISTR that the 'drive dog' is offset so that the
>distributor shaft can engage only one way. Seems to me you'll have to lift
>out and reposition the drive gear 180 degrees out of its current position,
>which is almost as simple as what you've proposed.
>
>
>--Andy
>
>* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
>* Andrew Mace, President and *
>* 10/Herald/Vitesse (Sports 6) Consultant *
>* Vintage Triumph Register <www.vtr.org> *
>* amace@unix2.nysed.gov *
>* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
>
>
>
>
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