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RE: [Fwd: Distributor Help]

To: "'scott suhring'" <suhring@lancnews.infi.net>, "Power British Performance Parts, Inc." <britcars@powerbritish.com>
Subject: RE: [Fwd: Distributor Help]
From: "Paige, Dean" <DPaige@ci.santa-rosa.ca.us>
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 1999 07:56:45 -0700charset="iso-8859-1"
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Something is wrong with this picture. The rotor by design can only be placed
on the shaft in one radial position... dizzy shaft slotted in one position
only. If it isn't someone has buggered it previously. If it is you
definitely need a new rotor you either have an incorrect or damaged one. As
for turning against the direction of the arrow (which does indicate the
direction of rotation) when cranking the engine... just another reason to
suspect incorrect rotor. Not too many correct starters turn an engine
backwards, and hey the car ran previously right? A rotor that was close to
spec but not quite might be expected to remain in correct position for a
time...but with a little wear?????.

Dean

-----Original Message-----
From: scott suhring [mailto:suhring@lancnews.infi.net]
Sent: Thursday, June 24, 1999 7:29 PM
To: Power British Performance Parts, Inc.
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fwd: Distributor Help]



Brian:

You are the only one currently responding to my follow up post
so I hope you don't mind me turning back to you.

Here is what I believe is going on.

I checked the rotor by cranking the ignition and it turned
counter clockwise. I never noticed that when I turned the
engine by hand to check points I was actually turning it
in the wrong direction...one leason learned today.

Put all back and still couldn't get it to fully turn over.
Almost but not quite.  Went back and checked the rotor
and turned the ignition and the rotor didin't turn. Re-checked
the base of the distributor to make sure siting flush
against the clamping plate. Loosened clamping pate and
reset the distributor (BTW, does it matter the position
of the rotor when engaging the drive dog? You can put it into
the slots so the rotor is either way, being 180 degrees from
the previous position  of the drive dog going in the slot. I
have tried it in both positions just to be safe).

What appears to be happening after a few tries of this cycle
is the drive dog is slipping up out of the slots. I beleive this
because on some tries the rotor turned fine and then I'd try again
and it wouldn't turn. If I try turning the rotor by hand it just
spins freely. If I put downward preasure while turning the 
rotor it will then match the slots and engage, at which point
it won't turn by hand.  Try cranking the ignition and it spins
correctly but go back and try again it diesn't spin.

Seems to me again, that the drive dog is somehow disengaging
from the slots, thus not getting any spark to the compression
chamber to turn the engine over???

Any help would be much appreciated.

Scott Suhring
Elizabethtown, PA
'70 TR6


Power British Performance Parts, Inc. wrote:
 
> Scott,
> 
> Could it be that the drive dog wasn't quite engaged fully after you
checked it?  Be sure the
> base of the distributor is fully home against the pinch bolt clamp with no
gap in between.
> 
> If all checks out there, leave the cap off the distributor, reach inside
and crank the
> engine with the key.  Watch the rotor.  It should spin counterclockwise
when viewed from
> above.  I just checked one I have on the shelf and the arrow does point in
the
> counterclockwise direction, but that's no guarantee your's is the same.
The simple check is
> to watch it for counterclockwise rotation.
> 
> If that all works, look at the connections on the coil.  You should have a
white/black
> tracer from the dist to the coil negative terminal and a solid white from
the harness to the
> coil positive.  If all of that wiring is correct, remove the white wire
from the coil
> positive and run a jumper directly from the battery positive to the coil
positive and try to
> start the car (use alligator clips for the jumper and attempt to start it
immediately after
> hooking the jumper wire - if left on for a few minutes, it can burn out
the coil).
> 
> Should the car run fine with the jumper but not with the white wire from
the harness, then
> you need to trace it back to the ignition switch.  Under the dash near the
key there is a
> bundle of a few white wires sticking out of the harness about 3".  They
are all pigtailed
> together.  That is the origin of the white wire that runs to the coil.
Perhaps you have a
> short somewhere in there.
> 
> Good luck!
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Brian Schlorff    '61 TR-4     '64 TR-4     '72 TR-6     '79 Spit
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
>      Power British                             Check out Power British
>     371 E. Main St.                                    on the 'net!
> Norristown, PA 19401
>    (610) 270-0505              http://www.powerbritish.com/~britcars
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