Message text written by INTERNET:triumphs-owner@autox.team.net
>Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1999 23:49:32 -0700
From: Shawn Mann <shaw.mon@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: TR6 rear wheel camber probs
Listfolk,
I have seemingly hit a snag in the suspension rebuild of my 1970 TR6.
The details: complete poly rebush, Moss comp springs, Spax in front,
Apple HD shocks in rear. The problem: the right rear wheel is
exhibiting noticeable positive camber, and ride height is approximately
one inch higher on the right rear. I have checked the spring pad to see
if I failed to seat the spring well and it was OK. There is no apparent
collision damage to either the trailing arm or the frame, the car tracks
straight when viewed from a distance, and the trailing arm mounting
brackets are in the right places (two notches on outside, one on inside
- both with notches facing up). The car had the same problem with the 30
year old stock springs that I replaced, but I had assumed that it was
due to uneven, driver-side-only spring sag.
I have heard mention that the trailing arm mounting brackets can be
inverted or exchanged with one of the late model three notch brackets,
creating several different possible combinations, and that a spread
sheet of all the combinations (with resultant effects??) might be
available on someone's webpage. Anyone with any clues or suggestions
about what to do about this? FYI, left rear is behaving nicely with -.5
degree camber with a full tank, no passengers, right rear is at +2
degree. I know I'll probably have to pull the trailing arm and change
the brackets, but I'd like to have an idea what to try rather than
extensive (and time consuming, and frustrating) trial and error.
<
Shawn, I have that info if you need it.
It was posted to the list a while back and I just looked at it
this past weekend. Strangely enough, the 1, 2, 3 up, down factors do
not follow the natural progression you would expect, but I have it all
laid out in a spreadsheet/ascii for anybody who needs it....
-Tony
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