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Re: Wooden Dashes

To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Wooden Dashes
From: Martin Secrest <msecrest@erols.com>
Date: Tue, 04 May 1999 17:39:23 -0400
Organization: **
References: <l03130302b35503553c2d@[10.16.17.7]> <372F59FD.17C50B06@ntplx.net>
Michael Ferguson wrote:
> 
> Tim, you might want to consider re-sawing a piece of your choosen wood to
> about 1/8" thickness and laminating it to a piece of plywood. That way, you
> get the strength of plywood, won't have to worry about the dash warping,
> twisting or cupping -  and you won't have the drawbacks of a paper-thin piece
> of veneer. At 1/8", you can sand and shape (speedo/tach holes) as necessary,
> without having to worry about fragile veneer.
> 
> If you have access to a planer and a bandsaw, re-saw a piece of 4/4 stock to
> about 3/16" and plane to 1/8". Then, take the leftover piece and plane it -
> you'll have nearly a 1/2" piece left over for another project. Seems a shame
> to just plane a 3/4" board down to 1/8", plus a big pile of shavings! Just my
> .02

This is a fine idea, depending on one's access to tools.  But cutting an 
entirely
new dash from stock is a time consuming, difficult job, and requires a good deal
of skill.  I definitely do NOT recommend it.  I did this job on a Spit dash,
using mahogany, and though the  solid dash didn't warp, it did SPLIT at an 
instrument
hole.

Veneer alone is delicate, but simple.  And I was advised not to use too
much cement so as to avoid wrinkling the veneer.

--
Martin Secrest
73 GT6
72 TR6

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