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Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 03:57:18 -0500
From: Jack McCarrick <jmccarr@iwaynet.net>
To: "Musson, Carl" <musson@satie.arts.usf.edu>
Subject: Re: stanchion plates
References: <A72B382474CAD21184850060970435F403C115@MENTOS>
This 70,000 series car had the plates with the windshield and chrome bolts that
bolted through to the body. It appears that they provide correct spacing since
the windshield width and body width did not change. The car was partially
disassembled when I go it so there is always the possibility that this was a
collected set of parts. Seemed to fit right but I won't know for sure until I
get to that stage of final re-assembly.
Jack McCarrick
Musson, Carl wrote:
> Although the function of the dzus springs on the pre-60000 is not needed, I
> believe that the plate should be still used. The stanchion itself is
> slotted to allow for easy removal (has anyone ever really tried that.. not
> easy...) from the plate. If it is mounted by just using the screws, there is
> the possibility of dropping, shifting, scraping the windshield while
> removing the screws. Also, the slot would leave a gap between the body and
> the stanchion which would allow our "friend" water into an area where it is
> definitely not wanted.
>
> Since the spring-less plate is not very common. It is possible that simply
> removing the pins and springs from the earlier version will make it useful
> for the post-60000 car. Bob - Have you had any luck yet?
>
> Later,
> Carl F. Musson,
>
> You can't tell which way the car went by just looking at the road...
> TR3A's - TS25264L ('58 Almost Daily Driver)
> & TS81802LO - ('61 Concours d'Wannabe)
> Tampa, Florida (USA)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Alex van Zanten [mailto:A.van.Zanten@inter.nl.net]
> Sent: Friday, February 26, 1999 5:09 AM
> To: Bush4brits@aol.com; triumphs
> Subject: Re: stanchion plates
>
> I was able to check out a post TS60000 model and saw no
> stanchion plates were
> used. The stanchions are screwed to the scuttle without any
> packing pieces what so
> ever. In the pre TS60000 models two oval holes are present
> to provide space for
> the S-shaped springs of a stanchion plate. I conclude you
> don't need the plates
> and have to screw your stanchion directly to the scuttle.
>
> Regards. Alex.
> '58 TR3a (TS38168L)
>
> Bush4brits@aol.com wrote:
>
> > Got the stanchion plates today, Mike.....thanks.
> > Sent the check out yesterday....you should get it in a day
> or so.
> > I need your help on this.....I thought I had it all down;
> but I don't think
> > so.
> > Recall the plates: There are 2 sets of mounting holes; one
> set is countersunk
> > for flat head screws and outside of these is a set of
> through holes with the
> > Dzus "s" wire on the backside of the plate. The outside
> holes (with the Dzus
> > "s" wire) lines up with the holes in the stanchions. If
> this is supposed to be
> > a through hole (straight into the scuttle, since they do
> line up), how am I
> > supposed to get the flat head screw through the "s" wire
> that's in the way?
> > Beyond that, how is the plate supposed to lie flat against
> the scuttle with
> > the pins and "s" wire protruding on the scuttle side of
> the plate (remember,
> > the opposite side of the plate is keyed to accept the
> stanchion).
> > The pre-60000 bodies must have a pocket built into the
> scuttle (for the pins
> > and Dzus "s" wire) to allow the plate to fit flush with
> it. That would make
> > sense. My car doesn't have this pocket.
> > The fix is easy enough, I'll just grind the pins off and
> remove everything
> > from the scuttle side of the plate..........but I was just
> wondering. Any
> > thoughts?
>
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