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Re: TR2/3 lower suspension fulcrum pin

To: Mark Gendron <mister_toad@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: TR2/3 lower suspension fulcrum pin
From: Brian Johnson <b.johnson@diamond.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 20:38:34 +0000
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Organization: Home
References: <000001be5772$b85fb1c0$9fff2599@wienerdog>
Mark
I had similar problems on both my TR4 and TR2 chassis fulcrum pins. On the 4
they were bent, and the 2 ones were rusty. I got my chassis repair man to do the
necessary work, as he has jigs etc.  and I was having other things done to the
chassis at the same time.   I think the pins could be replaced by a home
mechanic, but as you say, there may be difficulties cutting and grinding the old
pins out.  The one thing to thin about when you do have them replaced (because I
didn't think about this at the time) is that if you want to lose the positive
camber of the front wheels, then it may be possible to position the pins further
out from the normal point.  I haven't done any calculations on this, but on the
later TR4A-5-6  chassis the pins are not welded in place and can be shimmed out
for that very purpose. Just a thought !
.


Mark Gendron wrote:

> On the TR2/3 front suspension, the lower inner fulcrum pin is welded into
> the frame.
> On my TR2, the bearing surfaces of this pin are very rusted and pitted. This
> is the
> result of the rubber bushings that the TR2 used where the lower suspension
> arms
> attach to the frame. The rubber bearings obviously allowed water in.
>
> It seems that I have three options here:
>
> 1. Rebuild the suspension with rubber bushings, leaving pin as is.
> 2. Rebuild with later-style steel and nylon bushings, leaving pin as is.
> 3. Same as #2, but replace the pin.
>
> The trouble with #2 is that the steel bushing rotates quite freely on the
> rusted
> pin, so this is likely to become the new "bearing" surface on my suspension.
> Of course, the desired result is for the steel bushing to stay in place and
> the
> nylon bushing to rotate around it.
>
> Replacing the pin is obviously a big job, since the old welds must be ground
> away and the new pin welded very accurately in place to preserve the correct
> suspension geometry.
>
> Has anyone here ever done this job? Thoughts?

--
Cheers
Brian Johnson

Internet bjohnson@myself.com (work) or b.johnson@lycosmail.com(home)

1963  TR4   AFP503A / IZS 733(USA) - CT27216-L (now not L but O ) ex USA
1954  TR2   46 BHX               TS554-O   UK Car in pieces
1989  Vauxhall Cavalier 2.0 GLI   - Eurobox  but it goes !



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