In a message dated 1/6/99 12:59:05 AM Eastern Standard Time,
dterrick@pangea.ca writes:
<<The pump is a good idea but the lines you describe are normal. Get a
factory shop manual and read the clearances. If you sand the grooves out
of the end plate and sand the main body down to accommodate the rotor to
body spec, you will virtually have a new pump. If the above conditions were
present that would be half of your problem. >>
Dave, Thanks for the info, I did check the oil pump clearances per the Haynes
manual, the pump is within spec, so I put it back in the engine. Is "sanding"
accurate enough or should I try a machine shop? How did you sand the ends?
I heard that if the grooves on the lobes of the inner gear of the pump where
big enough to catch you fingernail, then the pump should be replaced. How deep
can the grooves be without having to replace the pump?
<< Part of your oil pressure problem could actually be a head problem. If
your
rocker gear is worn out, there will be a lower pressure/higher flow out of
this gallery. This is effectively an "open faucet" that reduces oil
pressure. >>
How do I check the rocker gear? I was going to do the bearing job with the
engine still in the car, I don't want to pull the engine and do any more than
I really have to to get my oil pressure back.
Wayne from Massachusetts
1973 TR6 Mallard/New Tan
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