Pete & Aprille Chadwell wrote:
> Just got done replacing the clutch in the TR6. Thank you all for the
> suggestions on the bushings, etc. I solved the fork/pin issue by having a
> local machinist make up a new pin, and that I'm sure will work perfectly.
> The bushings for the cross-shaft came from TRF and were twice the width of
> the old ones that came out, so I just used one per side.
>
> The clutch works fine and all, except that it "grabs" way down close to the
> floor. I mean WAY DOWN. Incidentally, I rebuilt the clutch master and
> slave, so the hydraulics are in reasonably good condition. I also repaired
> the stretched hole in the yoke on the master cylinder pushrod, so I've
> eliminated quite a bit of lost motion in the entire linkage. (New sleeve,
> new fork pins, new shaft, new bushings, etc.)
>
> Has anyone else remedied this characteristic by making modifications to the
> pushrods on either the slave or master cylinder? Would fabricating an
> adjustable-length pushrod for the slave allow you to adjust this? Or would
> any such modification simply be compensated back out by the
> "self-adjusting" slave cylinder? Any suggestions on how to improve this?
> I'd sure like to see the clutch grabbing right about half-way through the
> pedal's travel.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Pete Chadwell
> 1973 TR6
Pete,
What hole are you using for clevis/cross-shaft? See if moving the pin makes a
difference. Is the cross-shaft lever perfectly vertical when at rest and then
moves
back about 5/8" when pedal is fully depressed? Is the pedal stop contacting
the lip
of the pedal box, or is it hanging up somewhere? Did you have the flywheel
refaced?
I've seen flywheels where over 1/8" was whittled away from the face - thereby
moving
the clutch pressure plate further away from the throwout bearing. Check that
you have
the slave cylinder mounted on the back side of the bracket and not the front.
Sorry
for so many questions, but your problem is in there somewhere!!!
Regards,
Brian Schlorff '61 TR-4 '64 TR-4 '72 TR-6 '79 Spit
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