I wanna get another stab at this fork question. Thanks to all who
responded on the bushing question. Everything's still so filthy around
there that I'm still not sure how much of the bushing is left, if any. The
other side I'm sure will be easy enough to tap out. Thanks for the
suggestions.
I'm still a little concerned with the fork issue, though. Peter Zaborski
(Thanks, Peter!) did confirm that there are two styles of forks used on
TR6s... His fork had the boss cast into it and that's where he drilled into
it. Makes for easier alignment for drilling, (I would think) and makes a
stronger hole with all that material around it. But mine, a '73, does not
have a boss cast into it. The walls of the cylinder through which the
shaft passes are rather thin, by my ruler looks to be a hair less than 1/8"
thick. The only boss in the casting of the fork is the one into which the
taper pin is threaded. That doesn't seem like much metal to me. Seems
like drilling a hole in that with a grade 8 running through might actually
cause the fork to crack and break apart if the taper pin ever broke. Maybe
I'm just being paranoid, but while I have this thing apart, I want to make
sure I do it RIGHT!
Any success out there with this "bossless" style fork?
Thanks again!
Pete Chadwell
1973 TR6
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