Hi Steve,
I assume you want to take the column lock off in order to get the column out?
If so,
it really isn't that hard if you don't mind laying on your back to drill out the
bolts. :-)
Start by removing the under dash ducts for the dash and floor eyeball vents.
Next
remove the U-clamp at the firewall by undoing two downward facing nuts - these
also
support the back of the H-strap reinforcement that runs parallel to the column.
Undo
the bolts that secure the front of the H strap - these point downward. Next
undo the
two bolts that secure the front bracket to the back of the dash facia - these
are
horizontal in the car and hard to see - try using a mirror. Now remove the top
and
bottom half of the front bracket. Note that the top half also has a single
bracket
securing it to the underside of the dash top. From under the dash, loosen the
pinch
clamp that covers the wires running up the column. Remove the speedo. You
should now
be able to carefully rotate the steering column tube complete with lock
assembly 180
degrees up behind and under the dash. Now the shear bolts are facing downward
and you
can easily spot them with a center and drill the the heads out. Stop drilling
as soon
as the heads come off. The shank will stand proud of the other half just
enough to
get a vice-grip on the threaded portion and back it out. On reassembly, you'll
need
5/16-18 x 3/4" socket head bolts (the kind that take a hex/allen key to
install) to
fit down in the recess on the column lock or TRF# 519188 (list $3.95 each) for
the
original shear type bolts.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Brian Schlorff
Power British
http://www.powerbritish.com/~britcars
Steve Rohal wrote:
> Listers;
> Has anyone replaced the steering column bushings in a TR6? Can you give me
> advice on how to handle shear bolts "easily"? Also, need a timing cover
> for a 70' TR6 engine- any to sell?
>
> TIA
> Steve Rohal
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