On Fri, 9 Oct 1998, Bruce T. Clough wrote:
> > FWIW the gas gauge appears to be consistently wrong. (reads far too low)
> > I can test the gauge by disconnecting the lead and grounding it, right?
>
> Whoa, maybe I'm a bit too fast on that last advice. Ground out the gas
>sender and see if you get full scale deflection on the gauge (yeah, I know I'm
>assuming a certain gauge circuit, but I don't have my schemos in front of me).
> If you don't, clean all connections from the voltage stabilizer on. If it
>now will deflect full scale, then the problem is solved. If not, the problem
>could be related to your temp reading being too low, that is, the voltage
>stabilizer is putting out too low a voltage. In this case, both the gas and
>temp gauges would be reading low. Insure that the voltage stabilizer has good
>connections and ground. The stabilizer puts out slightly over 10V (again, I
>think 'cause I have no refs here at work), so you might want to check this.
Both the gas gauge and temp gauge get full-scale deflection when I ground
the leads. Oh pooh.
I think the temp gauge does work. I also think the thermostat is workign
(haven't verified for sure)
> > Also, I was losing fluid out the overflow today- I figured that the Bar's
> > Leaks had done its thing and therefore I had too much coolant in the rad.
> > Before it would come out a bad solder joint in the top.
>
> You might also have a leaky head gasket. Did you rebuild the engine, or have
>the head off lately? Retorque the head nuts and see if this goes away. I
>personally will go without beer (I know, blasphemy) to get $$ to rebild a
>radiator rather than use Barr's Leak!
No. I have never taken the head off, and am dreading the day when I have
to :-)
> See if a radiator shop can take yours apart, clean and resolder. This costs
>me $50 where I live. Much cheaper than a new radiator or recore.
It would be more than that. It's $250 cdn for a re-core on my dad's
Oldsmobile (we got a 'new' rad from a wrecker for $60 instead)
> > Another thing I notice- the rad was making slight "gloomf" noises right
> > after shut down when I got home. Is this normal, or could something be
> > plugged?
>
> That could either be steam generated by hot spots when you stop circulating
>water, or it could be reaction to a head gasket leak. The classic head gasket
>leak reaction is for the radiator to spew fluid after shutting down to the
>point where little fluid is left after a few drives. Gurgling noises are
>always evident.
She still spits coolant on shutdown. We figured it was probably air lock
in the bodged up rad hoses.
Tomorrow I have to attend a cousin's wedding. I think I will drive mom's
car, rather than risk barfing all my coolant over the parking lot at the
church. I will also see if I can get a proper hose set for the lower
hoses. I have the right metal one, but the rubber hoses are those
flexible accordionated ones.
BTW I did a compression test today. Numbers were consistent, albeit a bit
low (80-90). The engine is supposed to be "fresh"- it's out of a TR4A.
Wonder if the rings are stuck.
The fly in the ointment: it runs like a champ. No symptoms of blown head
gasket or water in the oil or anything.
I wish I'd had the money and time to do a full rebuild on the thing... but
I don't. (anyone want to pay me buckets of money to go to school?) I
might pull 'er off the road soon for winter. :-( :-( We'll see if new
rad hoses make it better in the meantime.
-Malcolm
* There is a FAQ for this list! Its temporary home is:
http://www3.bc.sympatico.ca/walker/triumph/trfaq.htm
|