On Tue, 1 Sep 1998, Hassan, Erkan wrote:
> On the test drive the pedal was firm. However, after driving a while
> without using the brakes, I would then need the brakes, when brakes were
> applied, the pedal is mushy again. With pumping it returns and if the
> pedal is pushed soon after it is OK. But if left alone for a while
> during driving it gets mushy. Fluid reservoir is full.
Hate to say it, but there is still air in the system. If you get tired of
bleeding, here's a few extra tricks to try:
-Pump the pedal until is is hard, and block it down with a piece of wood
(so that the brakes are "on" as hard as possible). This will compress the
air bubble, and move it, and is sometimes enough to get rid of it. (I
think it's because the air compresses into a fluid, which is absorbed by
the brake fluid. I could be wrong). Disconnect the battery first so that
you don't drain it (brake lights will be on)
-bleed each junction in the hydraulic system. To do so, you have to undo
each fitting on the system while it's pressurized (someone's foot on the
brake). Open the fitting just enough to make it leak, then do it back up.
If all the fittings are rusty, this is not a good method.
-Change your bleeding practice. There are many ways to do the same job.
Try going slowly, quickly, opening the bleeder only on the down stroke,
leaving it open and letting fluid gush out, etc.
> I have not looked at the rear brakes yet.
There's a quick test to see if your rear brakes are dragging. Go for a
drive, apply the brakes, quite hard (come to full stop). Stop car, jump
out, lick thumb, touch brake drum (just TOUCH). If you hear a "hiss" then
your brakes are too tight (and possibly, your thumb is burnt. Don't waste
time) If the drum is cold, you need to adjust the rear brakes. It should
be fairly hot, but not scalding.
> How have others replaced front rotors without the benefit of impact
> wrenches?
Big arms, and an expensive ratchet. It's best to pull a tool in this
case, it's easier to catch yourself if something breaks. If you push
on a bar or wrench, and it pops off, you go flying into whatever
sharp implement you are facing. Don't stick your head in the wheel well.
(Easy way out: rent an impact wrench)
In other words, yes, you can do it with no power tools. Be prepared to
use lots of penetrant, brute force, and swear words.
> Assuming the rear brake drums have melded into one solid mass, how does
> one check the back?
>
> Any and all thoughts are greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks
> Erkan Hassan
> 62 TR3B
>
>
-Malcolm
* There is a FAQ for this list! Its temporary home is:
http://www3.bc.sympatico.ca/walker/triumph/trfaq.htm
|