I greatly appreciated the wise advice from the list regarding the
calipers and pistons.
As a recap, when I brought my TR3B home, the PO said it had just received
a new master cylinder. The squishy brakes, I therefore attributed to
lack of bleeding (since it was replaced the day I picked the car up). I
bleed the brakes (note: all 4 bleed nipples had fluid coming out of them
when loosened and pumped) and the pedal improved but still needed
pumping. I then heard terrible metal to metal grinding on the front
passenger side. The ouside pad had completely worn down to metal onto
the rotor. The remaining 3 pads on the front were all fine.
I ordered a caliper rebuild kit, new pads, 2 new rotors and 4 new
pistons. Although all of the pistons were rusted, only the one with the
worn pad was stuck. Compressed air courtesy of the local Exxon got all 4
pistons out.
Since I could not get the whire wheel hubs and rotors off since the wheel
turned freely and the nuts had no intention of budging, I was to let the
shop take care of replacing the rotors. So I put new seals, bellows and
pistons into each caliper. Put everything back together again, bleed the
brakes again and whent for a spin (note:with the old rotors). The break
pedal was initially strong then turned into mashed potates. Back to Exxon
to blow out the piston. Turns out I had inadvertantly put a nick in the
seal on the front passenger side and all the brake fluid drained out all
over the tire and road. Fluid reservoir bone dry.
Replaced the seal, bellow and piston, reattached caliper and bled the
system AGAIN.
Still have not replaced rotors.
On the test drive the pedal was firm. However, after driving a while
without using the brakes, I would then need the brakes, when brakes were
applied, the pedal is mushy again. With pumping it returns and if the
pedal is pushed soon after it is OK. But if left alone for a while
during driving it gets mushy. Fluid reservoir is full.
With somewhat hard braking, that familiar smell of burned pad resonates
in the cockpit.
I have not looked at the rear brakes yet.
What is going on here??
Where should I start?
Are the front piston(s) stuck again?
Are there no rear brakes?
Does it need to be rebleed again (I'm really getting tired of doing
this)? All bleeding has been done the old fashion way without an EZ bleed
or Mitivac.
How have others replaced front rotors without the benefit of impact
wrenches?
Assuming the rear brake drums have melded into one solid mass, how does
one check the back?
Any and all thoughts are greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Erkan Hassan
62 TR3B
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