Interesting and timely message. I was looking at a "project" that has
surface rust on the frame, but otherwise the frame is sturdy. I figured
that pulling the tub would make it easier to remove the surface rust, and
repaint the frame. This would also allow me to prepare the underside of
the tup for repainting. The idea of beadblasting sounds like a good idea
to me. Especially if the company doing the job has the equipment to roll
over the tub/frame for beadblasting. My question is how much would someone
charge to do the job? I have heard about companies who will rent out the
space and equipment so you can do the job yourself. Does anyone one know
of a company in the San Jose, California area who will do this?
Steve
At 04:24 PM 8/31/98 -0500, Stinocher, Bryan D. wrote:
>
>List:
>
>I am at a crossroads. I have put some questions to the list about how to
>pull a body tub, removing tar, etc., lately because I am (was?) interested
>in pulling the body tub off of my 68 TR250. I have rec'd several very good
>replies to this, some for, some against. I just rec'd quite a long missive
>from Henry Frye (if you remember, I do have a shrine to him built in my
>garage!) questioning if I really needed to pull the tub or not. Needless to
>say, he makes some very strong arguments against. He suggested I put it to
>the list, so...
>
>The car is 98% rust free (I still need to look at the bottom really well,
>but from crawling around underneath when purchasing, and from pulling all
>fenders, doors, carpeting, etc., there is absolutely NO RUST! It is as solid
>as the day it was born.). The only rust (surface only, of course) I have
>found was in the front area where it had probably leaked around the top
>windscreen seal into the crash pad, where it was held. The car had a slight
>(?) front end rearrangement by the PPO (previous previous owner) that
>resulted in some minor rust up front in the headlamp area, but nothing that
>some fiberglass and a thin coat of bondo can't fix. The only reasons I
>thought pulling the tub was the answer was: 1) to paint everything
>underneath (I thought it would be easier w/o the frame) so that I can be
>absolutely sure that the tin worm won't show up sometime soon and I have to
>redo everything; 2) the make it easier to work on the mechanicals without
>having to crawl around underneath a car with the clearance of knat's knees,
>even on jack stands!; 3) to be sure that I can strip and paint the frame for
>the same reason as #1, although again, I don't think there is anything
>really wrong with it; and 4) I just thought that was what you do! (I'm new
>to this, sorry).
>
>Leaving the tub on solves some space problems for me, and means that I only
>have to pull the engine. I am going to attach what Henry told me. Let me
>know if you agree/disagree (I want all sides to this before I move forward),
>or if you would do some things differently. I would appreciate your
>experiences in this. Is this car a candidate for frame off, or am I
>overreacting?
>
>Here is what Henry said:
>I gotta tell you, you are really diving in deep here, and for what benefit?
>The act of removing the tub should not be that bad. IF, and it is a big if,
>the tub is quite solid to begin with, and is not twisted during it's
>travels off the frame, it should go back on with minor hassles.
>
>Pulling the drivetrain with the body on is a piece of cake. Getting the car
>bead blasted with the car on the frame will only make the car easier to
>manage. The guys doing the blasting should have the equipment to roll the
>car on it's side, and blast the bottom.
>
>I think you need to question the list. Again. ;-)
>
>>From the pictures, and what you have told me, I think you are nuts.
>Assuming the frame is 100%, this is what I would do:
>
>Leave the tub on the chassis. Pull the engine and transmission. Strip the
>car completely, but leave the wheels/suspension on. Then, take the car to
>the blaster. Have it stripped and primed. Then, get the car back from teh
>blaster. Replace the brake lines. Rebuild the brake calipers, and replace
>the brake cylinders in the rear. Drop the diff, and if the bracket has
>already been reinforced, just check the diff for lash, and hang it back up.
>Service the half shafts and rear hubs as needed. Replace the bushings in
>the rear suspension. Install new springs in back if needed. Remove the
>front suspension, replace all worn parts. Paint as needed as you go.
>
>Then, when the mechanicals are 100%, do the necessary bodywork, and final
>paint. Rebuild the engine and transmission. Install the drivetrain and the
>interior.
>
>Enjoy the car.
>
>I took apart my first TR, a 250, in a two car garage. All the parts went
>into the basement as they came off. I spread to fill the space I had. I
>think the thought of keeping one space in a two car garage available for a
>daily driver is nice, but good luck. I wasn't able to.
>
>As far as your comment on making a mountain out of a molehill, no, you I
>think you might be underestimating the task of getting the tub to line back
>up when you are putting it back together. If the tub gets tweaked a bit at
>the blaster's, you will have to figure out how to tweak it back. If you
>really must pull the tub, how about this...
>
>Strip everything off the tub, but leave the suspension as is, and take the
>car to get bead blasted on the frame. When you get it back, THEN remove the
>tub. Put it on it's makeshift frame, and be REAL CAREFUL! When you have the
>tub off the frame, you can do the little blasting yourself on the surfaces
>the blasting shop missed, where the frame and tub meet. This way, you are in
>complete control of the tub when it is most vulnerable. I sort of like this
>idea...
>
>Good luck, and think about this post. I think you will get your car on the
>road much faster if you don't pull the tub. And ask the list for input on
>whether to pull the tub or not. I would get several opinions if I were you.
>
>Henry off...
>
>Any help/insight is GREATLY appreciated...
>Bryan
>bdstinocher@sewsus.com
>502-782-7397 xt. 2284
>68 TR 250 CD 5853 L (Turning Trials into Triumph!)
>
>
>
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