List:
I am at a crossroads. I have put some questions to the list about how to
pull a body tub, removing tar, etc., lately because I am (was?) interested
in pulling the body tub off of my 68 TR250. I have rec'd several very good
replies to this, some for, some against. I just rec'd quite a long missive
from Henry Frye (if you remember, I do have a shrine to him built in my
garage!) questioning if I really needed to pull the tub or not. Needless to
say, he makes some very strong arguments against. He suggested I put it to
the list, so...
The car is 98% rust free (I still need to look at the bottom really well,
but from crawling around underneath when purchasing, and from pulling all
fenders, doors, carpeting, etc., there is absolutely NO RUST! It is as solid
as the day it was born.). The only rust (surface only, of course) I have
found was in the front area where it had probably leaked around the top
windscreen seal into the crash pad, where it was held. The car had a slight
(?) front end rearrangement by the PPO (previous previous owner) that
resulted in some minor rust up front in the headlamp area, but nothing that
some fiberglass and a thin coat of bondo can't fix. The only reasons I
thought pulling the tub was the answer was: 1) to paint everything
underneath (I thought it would be easier w/o the frame) so that I can be
absolutely sure that the tin worm won't show up sometime soon and I have to
redo everything; 2) the make it easier to work on the mechanicals without
having to crawl around underneath a car with the clearance of knat's knees,
even on jack stands!; 3) to be sure that I can strip and paint the frame for
the same reason as #1, although again, I don't think there is anything
really wrong with it; and 4) I just thought that was what you do! (I'm new
to this, sorry).
Leaving the tub on solves some space problems for me, and means that I only
have to pull the engine. I am going to attach what Henry told me. Let me
know if you agree/disagree (I want all sides to this before I move forward),
or if you would do some things differently. I would appreciate your
experiences in this. Is this car a candidate for frame off, or am I
overreacting?
Here is what Henry said:
I gotta tell you, you are really diving in deep here, and for what benefit?
The act of removing the tub should not be that bad. IF, and it is a big if,
the tub is quite solid to begin with, and is not twisted during it's
travels off the frame, it should go back on with minor hassles.
Pulling the drivetrain with the body on is a piece of cake. Getting the car
bead blasted with the car on the frame will only make the car easier to
manage. The guys doing the blasting should have the equipment to roll the
car on it's side, and blast the bottom.
I think you need to question the list. Again. ;-)
>From the pictures, and what you have told me, I think you are nuts.
Assuming the frame is 100%, this is what I would do:
Leave the tub on the chassis. Pull the engine and transmission. Strip the
car completely, but leave the wheels/suspension on. Then, take the car to
the blaster. Have it stripped and primed. Then, get the car back from teh
blaster. Replace the brake lines. Rebuild the brake calipers, and replace
the brake cylinders in the rear. Drop the diff, and if the bracket has
already been reinforced, just check the diff for lash, and hang it back up.
Service the half shafts and rear hubs as needed. Replace the bushings in
the rear suspension. Install new springs in back if needed. Remove the
front suspension, replace all worn parts. Paint as needed as you go.
Then, when the mechanicals are 100%, do the necessary bodywork, and final
paint. Rebuild the engine and transmission. Install the drivetrain and the
interior.
Enjoy the car.
I took apart my first TR, a 250, in a two car garage. All the parts went
into the basement as they came off. I spread to fill the space I had. I
think the thought of keeping one space in a two car garage available for a
daily driver is nice, but good luck. I wasn't able to.
As far as your comment on making a mountain out of a molehill, no, you I
think you might be underestimating the task of getting the tub to line back
up when you are putting it back together. If the tub gets tweaked a bit at
the blaster's, you will have to figure out how to tweak it back. If you
really must pull the tub, how about this...
Strip everything off the tub, but leave the suspension as is, and take the
car to get bead blasted on the frame. When you get it back, THEN remove the
tub. Put it on it's makeshift frame, and be REAL CAREFUL! When you have the
tub off the frame, you can do the little blasting yourself on the surfaces
the blasting shop missed, where the frame and tub meet. This way, you are in
complete control of the tub when it is most vulnerable. I sort of like this
idea...
Good luck, and think about this post. I think you will get your car on the
road much faster if you don't pull the tub. And ask the list for input on
whether to pull the tub or not. I would get several opinions if I were you.
Henry off...
Any help/insight is GREATLY appreciated...
Bryan
bdstinocher@sewsus.com
502-782-7397 xt. 2284
68 TR 250 CD 5853 L (Turning Trials into Triumph!)
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