Shucks, I drove to Conway, AR from NC for mine - and drove it back - on
I-40, fightin' 18Wheelers all the way.
TW
--
Thomas P. Winslow
1966 TR4A IRS - CTC57665L <> 1968 TR250 - CD4783L <> 1968 TR250 - CD5272L
189 Hicks Creek Road, Troutman, NC 28166
h704-528-5868 * f704-528-5868 * p704-878-1157
E-Mail: winslow@vnet.net * tom_winslow@msn.com
Web Page: http://www.iredell.com/triumph.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-triumphs@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-triumphs@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Rick Taylor
Sent: Sunday, August 02, 1998 8:52 AM
To: fergie@ntplx.net; 'edward k ulm'
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: TR4 Info
Michael
Be patient. The car for you is out there. I ended up driving to Omaha from
Cincinnati to get my 4A, but it was worth the trip. It is an unrestored
car, only having been paint once by the previous owner. Just keep looking
and you will find the right car for you.
Rick
TR4A CT57505L
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-triumphs@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-triumphs@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of fergie@ntplx.net
Sent: Saturday, August 01, 1998 11:08 PM
To: edward k ulm
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: TR4 Info
edward k ulm wrote:
>
> On Sat, 01 Aug 1998 16:55:07 -0700 fergie@ntplx.net writes:
> >
> >Hi! I'm new to this mailing list thing - really have no idea what I'm
> >doing, but thought I'd give it a shot. I have a few questions about
> >buying a TR4.
> >
> >1) I realize that a car with fiberglass fenders won't win any concours
> >prizes, but otherwise, is there any reason to reject a car for that
> >reason alone? I didn't even know they MADE glass fenders, but found a
> >car with them and just wondered if it was a good idea.
>
> My recommendation is if the car has fiberglass fenders, walk away. Take
> your time and look for a car with solid steel fenders. Reproduction
> steel fenders are very expensive and I don't think they fit right.
> >
> >2) If I find a car that I like, but that doesn't have wire wheels,
> >what
> >can I expect to pay for a set of painted wheels, splined hubs and
> >knockoffs in reasonable condition? Or are they even available used?
>
> Wire wheels are an attractive period accessory. However they are much
> heavier than the steel disc wheels and get fragile with age. The hubs
> wear, they go out of round and I've heard of spokes breaking. Tire shops
> also have a hard time dealing with them. My advice is to learn to love
> the disc wheels.
>
> Yes you can find the stuff used.
>
> Yes I have wire wheels on my car.
>
> >
> >3) I'm sure I'll think of more, but for now, any suggestions would be
> >appreciated. Thanks, all...
>
> Always look for a solid rust free body. I cant stress how important it is
> to be patient and wait for the right car. Spots to look at are the sill
> area, the inner fenders over the wheel arches, the rear deck where the
> fenders bolt up not to mention the floors (especially where the front of
> the floor meets the bottom of the bulkhead.
>
> Get the Moss and Victoria British catalogs and aquaint yourself with the
> body structure and terminology (and prices).
>
> Take a close look at the frame. Look under the front end and make sure
> everything is straight. The body (at the front) is supported on the
> frame by two angle iron structures on each side. If these are wrinkled or
> bent consider not buying the car.
>
> Make sure all of the body panels line up. If not the car had some
> serious accident damage. Go else where.
>
> If your really extreme (smart) jack up the car and support it on jack
> stands. Crawl under the car with a ball peen hammer and tap around on
> the frame. Use your ears.
> if you hear dull thuds rather than metallic pings beg off. Tell the
> seller that the car is very very nice but its not for you.
>
> That last step may sound dirty and less than fun but its a much more
> enjoyable and less time consuming ($$$) than doing body/frame work.
>
> Look at a minimum of five cars before buying (thanks John Twist).
>
> Take your time and enjoy the buying process.
>
> That's probably enough for now.
>
> Hope this helps,
>
> Eddy Ulm
> 1963 TR4
> 1980 Spitfire
>
>
>
> >
> >Michael
> >
>
> _____________________________________________________________________
> You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
> Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
Thanks, Eddy. Hadn't thought of the ball peen idea, but it sounds like a
good one.
Already looked at one car with the normal (1/8-1/4") space between the
front wing and the top of the door - at least 3/4" space at the bottom!
Guy said it was the result of a poor rocker repair. I passed. Oh, it was
a poor rocker repair too, but not for me.
Is it possible to properly repair a bent frame? I had one guy tell me
his had frame damage on both sides of the front (a previous owner who
was apparently a slow learner - two separate accidents!), but that it
had first been straightened and then, reinforced with welded-on steel.
Is this legit or am I asking for trouble.
Let's see, I've looked at four cars now - there was also a fifth, and
I'd have bought it in a minute, but not for sale. Does this mean the
next one will be THE car? Hope so, getting a little frustrated. Thanks
again.
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