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Re: TR4 Info

To: fergie@ntplx.net
Subject: Re: TR4 Info
From: eddy-ulm@juno.com (edward k ulm)
Date: Sat, 1 Aug 1998 18:34:03 -0500
Cc: triumphs@Autox.Team.Net
References: <35C3AADB.5A12@ntplx.net>

On Sat, 01 Aug 1998 16:55:07 -0700 fergie@ntplx.net writes:
>
>Hi! I'm new to this mailing list thing - really have no idea what I'm
>doing, but thought I'd give it a shot. I have a few questions about
>buying a TR4.
>
>1) I realize that a car with fiberglass fenders won't win any concours
>prizes, but otherwise, is there any reason to reject a car for that
>reason alone? I didn't even know they MADE glass fenders, but found a
>car with them and just wondered if it was a good idea.

My recommendation is if the car has fiberglass fenders, walk away.  Take
your time and look for a car with solid steel fenders.  Reproduction
steel fenders are very expensive and I don't think they fit right.
>
>2) If I find a car that I like, but that doesn't have wire wheels, 
>what
>can I expect to pay for a set of painted wheels, splined hubs and
>knockoffs in reasonable condition? Or are they even available used?

Wire wheels are an attractive period accessory. However they are much
heavier than the steel disc wheels and get fragile with age. The hubs
wear, they go out of round and I've heard of spokes breaking. Tire shops
also have a hard time dealing with them.   My advice is to learn to love
the disc wheels.

Yes you can find the stuff used.

Yes I have wire wheels on my car.

>
>3) I'm sure I'll think of more, but for now, any suggestions would be
>appreciated. Thanks, all...

Always look for a solid rust free body. I cant stress how important it is
to be patient and wait for the right car.  Spots to look at are the sill
area, the inner fenders over the wheel arches, the rear deck where the
fenders bolt  up not to mention the floors (especially where the front of
the floor meets the bottom of the bulkhead.

Get the Moss and Victoria British catalogs and aquaint yourself with the
body structure and terminology (and prices).

Take a close look at the frame. Look under the front end and make sure
everything is straight. The body (at the front)  is supported on the
frame by two angle iron structures on each side. If these are wrinkled or
bent consider not buying the car.

Make sure all of the body panels line up. If not  the car had some
serious accident damage. Go else where.

If your really extreme (smart) jack up the car and support it on jack
stands.  Crawl under the car with a ball peen hammer and tap around on
the frame. Use your ears.
if you hear dull thuds rather than metallic pings beg off.  Tell the
seller that the car is very very nice but its not for you.

That last step may sound dirty and less than fun but its a much more
enjoyable and less time consuming ($$$) than doing body/frame work.

Look at a minimum of  five cars before buying (thanks John Twist).

Take your time and enjoy  the buying process.

That's probably enough for now.

Hope this helps,

Eddy Ulm
1963 TR4
1980 Spitfire

 


>
>Michael
>


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