Roger,
I'm going to tackle an AC project with '77 spitfire ... but I probably
won't get to it until spring next year (before the summer). It gets
hot down here in Orlando too!
Right now I'm getting ready to rebuild another 1500 engine and drop it
in--hopefully I'll complete this in the next two months... in time for
comfortable fall driving. (Got to get her running before I worry about
AC)
Luckily, I have the benefit of having a father who is both EMACS and
ASE certified. He is retired, but still does AC, carburator, and
cylinder head work for extra income. Here are some preliminary notes
about the spit/ac job you and other might find interesting:
1. If at all possible, use the R-134a system. It is up 10 times less
expensive than R-12 refridgerant or even some of the new hybrids
(Autofront, etc).
2. Often it is necessary to have a heavier than usual radiator to
prevent overheating... have you done anything along these lines or not
necessary in your case?
3. At least with my Spit, I'm concerned about power-loss. (These
things aren't exactly fast to begin with.. what is going to happen
when it's pushing that AC compressor?)
4. Perhaps my biggest problem: Where does the evaporater core go?
I've heard stories about people installing them in a modified glove
compartment area on the spits. Doesn't sound like fun... You mentioned
something about a combination heater/evap core??? (Sounds interesting
-- could you explain further)
Regards,
Rick
'77 Spit -- http://www.apiinc.com/rick/spitrec.html
---rgb@exact.com wrote:
>
>
> ---------Latest excuse for a delay...--------------------
>
> Okay, so I'm behind schedule, missed the VTR. This was due to some
> hairbrain scheme to finish a nut and bolt restoration on a TR6 that
> arrived to me in boxes... in 4 months.
>
> Two words describe it:
> 1. done
> 2. expensive
>
> Enough said, other than 1/2 quart of oil down the dist hole
> will prime the oil pump enough to build pressure with the plugs out.
>
> ---------Latest excuse for a delay...--------------------
>
>
> "TR6 vs. AC" or "Daily commute at 104 F" or "Its hot as hell in
TX"
>
> Anyone that even breathes the words "why would you want AC" hasn't
been
> south this summer, 5 weeks straight of 104 F heat.
>
> BACKGROUND: Two years ago, I investigated adding the original style
> AC systems to my 76 TR6 and concluded that those units/design are
obsolete
> and could be much improved upon. I replace the heater with a
modern
> HP fan and heater/evaporator core, added a compressor, condenser,
lines,
> etc. Actually, I did the car, then tore the whole thing out to
do it
> again... open wallet toss $2k. The 2nd time worked well, but was
> a mess to install. Thanks to the modern compressor it ran the
new R-134a
> freon and I didn't need the idle adjusted to pull the AC...
>
> CURRENT STATUS: After my 1st adventure, I concluded that I should
use
> my learned knowledge to attack this again. All pieces were
purchased
> and a 74 TR6 was next (TR250-74 are alike, 75/76 completely
different,
> note upper radiator outlet, air pump, etc. etc.) to prove it worked
> on the early cars.
>
> My goals this time were:
>
> 1. 4 hour installation time
> 2. no cutting of any metal, i.e. a reversable modification, so I
> can move it to the TR6 that is running each summer...
> 3. publish pictures, parts sources, and provide the minimum number
> of custom parts
> 4. resolve the major underdash mess with a custom
heater/evaporator unit
> 5. one kit fits all TR6 and TR250 (likely the 4's with a slight
mount
> change)
> 6. Freeze the car even in 104 F heat
>
> COST: less than $1k and a drive to the local AC place for a leak
test,
> recharge, the $49.95 special deal.
>
> AVAILABILITY: I am cutting 10 sets of the brackets, pulleys, odd
parts, and
> the custom underdash unit. The rest can be ordered straight from
> the parts sources.
>
> Shortly I'll need a few brave souls to attempt to recreate this
installation.
> Qualities I'd recommend: spare $1k cash, ability to install anything
> with or without instructions, light on the brains, and a great
sense of
> humor.
>
> All joking aside, the car itself must be in great shape, no openings
> in the firewall, trans tunnel, top... i.e. a sealed up car suitable
for AC.
>
> Roger
>
> --
> Roger G. Bolick, rgb@exact.com 512-794-9567, FAX 512-345-2879
>
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