On Thu, 16 Jul 1998, Jack I. Brooks wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> I am planning on upgrading my TR3 drivetrain this winter. One aspect of
> this upgrade is the switch to the later diaphragm clutch, like the TR4A
> though TR6. The only used part I need to acquire is a TR4A flywheel. I've
> got a local club member who has a fair number of TR flywheels he is willing
> to sell, but he doesn't know the difference between models. Unfortunately,
> I have no experience here either, so the bottom line is.....
>
> How can I positively identify a TR4A flywheel?
I'll give it a shot... If you have a TR3 pressure plate floating
about use it to see if it will line up with the studs on the
flywheel (I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say that stud
position is the key identifier... I think). If it lines up, it's
not the right flywheel... Conversley If you tale the TR4A pressure
plate to your favorite machine shop you can have the studs moved.
Identifying a good fly wheel, as i said thy're boat anchors. If
it has no obvious flaws there probably arent any. Dangle it from a
hook or your finger (my don't you have strong fingers) tap it with
a wrench or something. If it rings nicely it should be okay. Blue
areas probably are just surface hardening when you get it lightened
and "refaced" these areas will most likely be milled off.
>
> Also, how thick is an uncut TR4A flywheel and what is the minimum allowable
> thickness?
It's about 1.5" thick give or take...
>
> Is there anything in particular I should look for beyond cracks,
> blue'd/hardened areas, etc. I feel his price of $20 sounds fair.
>
Yeah I do too... Have a real good look at the ring gear while
you're about it (ya may as well get the best of everything)
You should remember, this is tractor technology... not the
precision stuff that's made by computer today.
gpetrola@prairienet.org 1962 TR4 (CT4852L)
"That's not a leak... My car is just marking its territory!"
Greg Petrolati, Champaign, Illinois
|