Hi Peter,
If you have .009" of thrust washer end-play, you might as well take the rear
cap off and measure the thrust washers to see how badly they are worn. I'd
get some new std. thickness thrust washers to have on hand and I'd also get
some .005 over thrust washers "just in case". With those parts on hand, you
can probably make up the end-float to within the spec.
One thing, though. Make sure the motor is relatively clean before you take
the oil pan off. Basically, you want to try to avoid getting any dirt in there.
One more thing, you should also consider replacing the main bearings and rod
bearings while you are in there. It really is not a big job, and it's a lot
easier to do it while the engine is out then to put it in and then have to
pull it out later to do the job again.
It's more or less "standard faire" to "refresh" the bottom end of the motor
on these cars every now and then. Some folks indicate that by re-doing the
bearings every 50 thousand miles or so, you can get 150 thousand miles on
one of these motors before you have to turn the crank or whatever.
If you do go the "refresh" route, make sure you get some "plastigauge" to
measure the bearing clearances and don't forget plenty of assembly lube!
See ya,
rml
TR6's
p.s. make a note of how the thrust washers install when you take 'em out!
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