Dan and Jay write...
>In a message dated 98-05-20 19:04:44 EDT, jay@rih.org writes:
>
>> Just thinking and not looking at a shematic here, but wouln't it be wise to
>> check the ignition switch before replacing the solenoid? Current may flow
>to
>> the coil in the on position, but there may be a bad connection within the
>> switch in the start position. Possibility?
>
>Mike, Tom, & Jay,
>
>Being "Spitfire challanged," as I only own TR6s, let me stub my toe on this
>one. According to the info I have, the '65 MKII does not have a ballast
>resister, so the solenoid is not involved in getting power to the coil as it
>is when there is a ballast resister. Normally, with a ballast resister, the
>solenoid bypasses the resister during cranking, and Tom's suggestion would be
>the first place to look with symptoms such as Mike described. In this case,
>however, I think the ignition switch is the culprit.
Mea culpa guys...I'm using a print here that is showing an external
ballast for some earlier cars but it may not apply the the '65 models.
The absense <or presence> of the white/yellow stripe wire at the start
solenoid should be the tip off.
>To confirm this, put a test light or voltmeter on the green wires at the fuse
>box and crank the engine. If the voltage goes away while the starter is
>spinning, then it is a pretty good bet that the ignition switch is bad. On a
>'65, there is nothing between the igntion switch and the green wires except
>the fuse. Actually, Mike has already done this test by checking the voltage
>at the white wire on the coil. The same white wire feeds the fuse for the
>green wires.
>
>My vote is the ignition switch.
>
>Dan Masters,
>Alcoa, TN
Is it too late to change mine? :-)
Cheers!
Tom O'Malley in Southbridge Massachusetts
'74, '77 Spits
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