In a message dated 98-05-20 19:04:44 EDT, jay@rih.org writes:
> Just thinking and not looking at a shematic here, but wouln't it be wise to
> check the ignition switch before replacing the solenoid? Current may flow
to
> the coil in the on position, but there may be a bad connection within the
> switch in the start position. Possibility?
Mike, Tom, & Jay,
Being "Spitfire challanged," as I only own TR6s, let me stub my toe on this
one. According to the info I have, the '65 MKII does not have a ballast
resister, so the solenoid is not involved in getting power to the coil as it
is when there is a ballast resister. Normally, with a ballast resister, the
solenoid bypasses the resister during cranking, and Tom's suggestion would be
the first place to look with symptoms such as Mike described. In this case,
however, I think the ignition switch is the culprit.
To confirm this, put a test light or voltmeter on the green wires at the fuse
box and crank the engine. If the voltage goes away while the starter is
spinning, then it is a pretty good bet that the ignition switch is bad. On a
'65, there is nothing between the igntion switch and the green wires except
the fuse. Actually, Mike has already done this test by checking the voltage
at the white wire on the coil. The same white wire feeds the fuse for the
green wires.
My vote is the ignition switch.
Dan Masters,
Alcoa, TN
'71 TR6---------3000mile/year driver, fully restored
'71 TR6---------undergoing full restoration and Ford 5.0 V8 insertion - see:
http://www.sky.net/~boballen/mg/Masters/
'74 MGBGT---3000mile/year driver, original condition - slated for a V8 soon
'68 MGBGT---organ donor for the '74
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