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RE: Clutch suggestions?

To: "'John Duhart'" <duhart@symbol.com>, triumphs@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: RE: Clutch suggestions?
From: "Musson, Carl" <musson@satie.arts.usf.edu>
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 15:53:31 -0400charset="ISO-8859-1"
Cc: "'streeter@sanders.com'" <streeter@sanders.com>
Unless there is a reason not to;  this sounds like a prime candidate for
the VTR pages and perhaps magazine/newsletters.

JM2CW.
Carl


        -----Original Message-----
        From:   John Duhart [SMTP:duhart@symbol.com]
        Sent:   Wednesday, April 29, 1998 3:44 PM
        To:     triumphs@autox.team.net; russell_bury@email.msn.com;
jbonina@nectech.com
        Subject:        Re: Clutch suggestions?


        Hey Jeff,

         The TRF Magic clutch is a combinatoin of parts from various
other cars.  Below is an email describing the clutch.

        Later,
        JHD IV

        Hi Folks,



        A few weeks ago, I put a message on the list asking for
recommendations 
        for
        good machine shops in the San Jose, CA area and asking if anyone
knew the
        specifics about the "Magic Clutch" that TRF sells (since they
are so
        circumspect about it and charge a small fortune for it, along
with
        requiring you to completely replace all the parts internal to
the
        bellhousing if you want it guaranteed).  Anyway, I got some good
messages
        steering me to good machine shops, <thank you !!> and some
messages 
        asking
        me to tell them if I found out the specifics RE:the clutch.
However, no
        messages with anything specific about TRFs clutch kit.  I found
this 
        really
        strange - TR people are usually inquisitive by nature so I
thought 
        somebody
        surely would have taken the time to "reverse engineer" the kit
contents -
        especially since TRF readily admits that the idea was not their
own in 
        the
        first place, but instead came from two gentlemen in Florida.
Not being
        easily discouraged, and having free lunch hours to make long
distance 
        calls
        and burn the internet links, I decided to find out the answer.
What
        follows is the compiled data from my study - I do not have any
interests 
        in
        any of the companies listed below.

        1. Clutch Release Bearing (or Throwout Bearing):  The bearing to
use is 
        the
        throwout bearing for a 1975-1986 Toyota Landcruiser.  This
bearing has a
        Beck-Arnley/Worldparts part number of 062-0898.  Other part
numbers it is
        listed under are "RCT52S", "RB-0203", and "046", but you can
just ask for 
        a
        1975-86 Landcruiser Throwout bearing and you will get the right
part.  It
        is a larger OD than the stock TR-6 T/O bearing, but the ID is
the same, 
        so
        it presses onto the stock TR-6 carrier/sleeve. Shop around for
the best
        price - I was quoted from a low of $40 to a high of $80 for the
exact 
        same bearing.


        2. Clutch Pressure Plate:  The Pressure Plate to use is the
SACHS 
        pressure
        plate for a 1979-1991 Saab 900 w/non-turbo 2 liter engine.  This
has a
        Sachs part number of SC436, and a Saab/Metrix Parts part number
of
        87-28-123.  When you buy this make sure you are getting a Sachs
part -
        Borg&Beck and Sachs were used interchangably on the 900 series
and the 
        Saab
        part number does not distinguish between the two brands.  If you
get a
        Borg&Beck you are getting the same part that you (most likely)
just took
        off your TR-6.  The best price I found was from "The Parts Guy"
(phone
        800-874-1850 - P/N SC436, $49.95 + shipping).


        3. Clutch Friction Disk:  There is no Sachs friction disk for a
TR - the
        Saab has a different input shaft.  Use any brand you want - as
long as 
        its
        not Q-H ( Q-H will probably work - they are just really poor on
quality
        control).

        Additional hints I gathered:

        1.  Hone or machine an addition .010-.020 of clearance off the
inner bore
        of the throwout bearing sleeve.  Apparently at higher
temperatures, it 
        has
        a tendency to stick.  Also install it with some high-temp
grease.

        2.  Drill a 5/16" hole at a 90 degree angle to the retaining pin
(offset
        from the pin - you don't want to drill through it) through the
fork and
        rod, and istall a grade 8 bolt and nut as additional insurance
from the 
        pin breaking.

        Well that's it.  Hope I didn't offend anybody - I was wondering
if this
        info was like a Masonic oath or something.  Many thanks to the
folks at
        Beck-Arnley/Worldparts, Metrix South, The Parts Guy, Midway
Industries
        (Centerforce Clutches), Sachs-Boge of America, Saab, Toyota,
Economy
        Imports, Olympic Imports, Auto Parts Club, and several folks who
wished 
        to
        remain anonymous - I could not have done it without your help,
parts 
        books,

        knowledge, and infinite patience.

        Have at it !!



        Hugh Barber
        '73 TR-6
        Santa Clara, CA



        -----Original Message-----
        From: jbonina@nectech.com <jbonina@nectech.com>
        To: triumphs@autox.team.net <triumphs@autox.team.net>
        Date: Wednesday, April 29, 1998 11:49 AM
        Subject: Clutch suggestions?


        >
        >I'm going to be swapping out my tranny in the '73 TR6 soon.
        >
        >I'm going to have a new clutch at hand in case the mechanic
needs it; I'll
        >return it otherwise.
        >
        >Does anyone have any input as to what brand, distributor, etc
to consider?
        To
        >stay away from?
        >TRF "magic clutch"? Why is it magic? Anything else I can learn?
        >
        >Thanks in advance,
        >
        >Jeff



        
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