Well there was a bit of interest in fiberglass hoods and a little bit of
interest in tops for both Spits and Stags. Nobody seems to be very interested
in floorboards or airdams. One Man offered to let me use his Stag top to make
the molds off of,but when I explained that it would have to be taken apart
before it could be used, we both deciced that his top was in too good a
condition to take the risk of damageing the seals etc.Back to square one on
that! As I said before, I have access to a late model Spit. hood mold and I
think I know where I can get a Spit top to mold from (early and late!). For
those of you who were interested in GT6 hoods I may decide to dissasemble my
own hood to make the molds from. I Figure that there are at least 10 seperate
molds needed to make one. My hood is in very good shape having been painted
already and reinstalled on the car. And its a "+" hood so it has the loovers
top and sides. I have also figured out how to do the LaMans style hood with
relative ease. People Have asked me how much all this would cost and I am not
sure exactly. I estimate the cost to be around $800.00 per unit (add About
$300.00 for the LaMans style) . Of course depending on where you are from me
there would be shipping costs. There would also be the cost of packing. This
is no small item and the way things get beat up in transit I am sure that it
would have to be in a crate. They wont rust but they can be broken. I have
seen glass parts shipped in boxes and they were trashed when they arrived.
All parts would be gellcoated in either white or gray,ready to prep and
paint. I think I could even prefit each one to make sure there a no problems
there.The owner would have to remove the inner brace tube and reinstall it in
their glass hood along with all the bits and pieces like latches, lights,
grill, etc. Depending on the skill of the owner the job could be done in a
weekend or two. The inside of the hood would be either raw glass or it could
be sprayed with gell to give a cleaner surface to work with. In any case it
would not be smooth.
One advantage to fiberglass is that it is east to repair and it wont need
more than sandpaper to prep ( no more metal etch, no more rust)
I have one big project a head of this , a 280Z that I am building all the
body panels for. The owner races SCCA GT 2 class in the Buccaneer Region. Its
a Screamer! By the by those panels are avalible too. So if you have a Z car
and you want it look wild or you just want to avoid rust drop me an e-mail.
PLB3
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