I'm currently doing the body work on my TR6. Thanks to taking an auto body
course at the local high school for three terms, I was given a good
starting point for undertaking such a task. My first experiment was a 1921
Model T Ford which came out great! That was back in the 80's. Now things
have changed. The old chemistry is out and has been replaced by more
expensive and complicated primers/surfacers and top coats. I must say that
I was very reluctant to give up my Lacquer primers/surfacers in favour of
these catalyst type materials. But such is life...
I finally got to a point where I had blocked in the damaged areas with
bondo and sanded down with #80 grit paper. I then applied several coats of
PPG K200/201 primer surfacer. After an overnight dry, I did a visual
inspection only to discover that I could still detect a trace of where the
bondo had been applied. Discouraged, I decided to sand it all down with
#180 grit and start the process over again. But wait, what is this?!? As
I sand down the primered areas I notice that it starts to smooth out and
the "detected" areas start to disappear! So I continue with increased
hopes and anticipation. Yes!!!! The K200/201 did its job!!!. The build
up was more than enough to fill in all the recess! This stuff is great.
In one application I was able to do what would have take me a zillions
attempts with the old lacquer primers! I'm convinced that these new
primer/surfacers are the only way to go!
I have a few high spots that will requite minor hammer/dolly work. After
that I am positive that one more applications of K200 will smooth those
areas out like glass.
Consequently, I'm really excited about seeing the light at the end of the
tunnel on my body work!
Just had to pass this along so any of you out there entertaining doing
their body work can save tens of hours of work by using this stuff. If you
want to know more don't hesitate to contact me.
Thanks
Dave,
San Diego, Ca
1970 TR6 PI CP51649 .... with a body taking shape rapidly!
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