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Re: U-joints: shoulda taken notes

To: Shawn Mann <shawmon@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: U-joints: shoulda taken notes
From: msecres@ibm.net
Date: Sun, 15 Mar 1998 18:35:35 -0500
Cc: triumphs@Autox.Team.Net
References: <350C209E.638A@worldnet.att.net>
Shawn Mann wrote:
> 
> Listers,
> 
> A couple of weeks ago (maybe a month) there was some discussion of tips
> for removing u-joint cups.  Well, I thought I was paying attention, but
> now that the half-shafts are sitting on my work table, I can't get the
> suckers out.  Could someone please repost some tips, or, so as not to
> beat a dead horse (by the way, which tires should I use on my TR6 and
> which company's carpet kit is best?) :-), you can email me direct.
> 
> TIA,
> 
> Shawn
> shawmon@worldnet.att.net
> 
> 70 TR6

For starters, regardless of what your manual may say, use no hammers to
extract the bearing cups.  Hammering on a yoke will distort it, only
making your reassembly job more difficult.

Yes, I've been there.

(If the yokes are distorted, your new bearing cups will likely not seat
fully, and the new joints will be stiff.)

To get the old cups out, get some sockets and a vice.  Place a socket
that just fits inside the yoke hole on one side, and on the opposite
side, a larger socket that fits on the outer edge of the yoke hole, and
will allow the cup to slide out of the yoke.  Then crank the vice.  Once
the cup is about halfway clear of the yoke, you should be able to pull
it the rest of the way out.

Lather, rinse and repeat for the remaining cups.  

Installing new joints is also done with the vice, and a heckuva lot
easier.  Note that the grease nipple is correctly fit against the yoke's
indentation for it.  You may find, as I did, that the aftermarket grease
nipple won't fit regardless, and you'll need to plug the hole with an
allen bolt, or a bolt with the head cut off and a slot hacksawed in the
center for a screwdriver.

Good luck, and have fun, if it's possible w/this job (!)

--
Martin Secrest
73 GT6
74 Spitfire

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