Robert, I had a similar problem with my TR in the past. It is at least on
the TR6 not uncommon for the ring gear to back off the fly wheel. When this
happens the starter will chip off the front of the teeth on the leading edge. It
will then develop 'flat spots' until it's completely unable to engage the ring
gear. You can tell by removing the Starter and looking for a gap between the
ring gear and the front (engine side) of the fly wheel. The ring gear should be
flush against the leading edge of the fly wheel. It's been my experience that
once the ring starts moving backwards it's only a matter of time before you are
unable to engage the starter.
Go luck,
Roger
Robert J. Snyder wrote:
> I replaced the starter on my TR-6 last year when I converted to Weber carbs.
> I figured it was the perfect time to perform some preventive maintenance
> with the increased access gained with the carbs removed. This seems to have
> been a mistake. The new starter I purchased was a Roadster Factory rebuilt
> unit. As soon as the new starter was in, I noticed it had what seems to be
> "dead" spots. The starter will "whir", but not engage. This occurs for one
> or two tries, and then might catch the third time the ignition is turned. I
> needed to use the car yesterday, but the darn starter was unusually bad,
> needing five tries to engage at one point. I did not experience this
> problem with the old starter. Are there any adjustments that need to be
> made when installing a new starter, such as with shims to align the starter
> pinion with the flywheel starter ring? I did not notice any shims when the
> old starter was removed.
>
> Getting ready to put the old starter back in. Any help would be greatly
> appreciated.
>
> Bob Snyder
>
> '70 TR-6
> '79 Spitfire
--
Roger Helman 71 TR6 CC67866L
Digimation Inc. http://deepthought.digimation.com/rogerh/
New Orleans La.
www.digimation.com
Voice. 504.468.7898
Fax. 504.468.5494
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