Hi Trevor,
The method described is alright, but mind you it`s the shape of the rocker arm
that makes the valve turn that tiny wee bit each time it opens and closes. If
that doesn`t happen with a worn out cup shape rocker arm tip, the valve is
prone
to burn in in tis weakest point. Consider that and the rewelding and regrinding
of the rocker arms is much safer and cheaper on the long run.
Cheers
Jan
63 TR4
Trevor Boicey schrieb:
> Rebareng wrote:
> > TR6 that I'd just bought when I realized I couldn't get a good measurement
> > with the becaust the ends of the rocker arms were worn (almost cupped where
> > the hit the valves).
>
> You still can set them if you have the time.
>
> Insert any feeler gauge into the gap, and tighten it down so that
> feeler gauge is "correct" ignoring the cup.
>
> Then insert a 0.010 feeler (or whatever your engine lash setting
> is) on top of the first feeler gauge (combined thickness), and count how
> many degrees you have to turn the adjusting screw until the gap
> is perfect. That degree amount is then equal to the number of turns
> to open 0.010.
>
> Then tighten the valve up to zero clearance, then back it off
> that many turns, and it will be 0.010.
>
> It's probably not the most exact method either, but probably
> a better alternative than buying new rockers or stripping them
> off for machining. Valve lash precision isn't THAT critical.
>
> --
> Trevor Boicey
> Ottawa, Canada
> tboicey@brit.ca
> http://www.brit.ca/~tboicey/
|