Dave Terrick here in el nino-peg (still have my bald summer tires on 2
weeks before xmas!).
On TR6 seat belts. When I wrote off my 74 (RIP) I knocked the mirror off
with my head. Inertia reel my ass. These things are unreliable at best
today. The other problem is that when it doesnt lock you slide forward off
the seat since it is one belt, not two. I feel much safer with a 3 inch
SCCA style lap belt of fixed length in my GT6 than I ever did with the 3
point in the TR6. And the comments of 5 points are correct - don't do it
unless you have a roll bar!
On lever shocks. Before I put the Englander bolt on conversion on the TR4a
(nicely progressing, thank you) I used 20/50 castrol motor oil. It's
British and it worked as a real cheap alternative to rebuilds. All you
need to do is top them up when you top up the leaky diff. The "engineers"
at TR apparently allowed for similar leakage rates from shocks and diffs.
Every other weekend was about right. Rustproofing was excellent!
On big bore bike motors. What can I say. Yee haa. If you go with a
snowmoble setup with the variable clutch, it will launch at the torque
peak and be even faster. Ya I know it's an automatic...... So long as
wierdness is the criterion, why not get the plasma cutter out and make it
a mid engine? 50/50 weight distribution, an excuse to do coil overs in
the rear, a really huge trunk in front..... (Johnny are you listening?)
On washing machines. it probably is a screaming belt from hell. These
things DO use fan belts in many models. Pull the back off in a way that
you can see the workings underneath, run the machine empty, look for the
shriek. Almost certainly is a belt. Dryers also use a belt to turn the
drum. No manuals are needed for these things. If the timer breaks,
replace the timer. If it doesn't pump water, replace the water pump. If
it leaks, well, it must be British.
Dave Terrick
Winnipeg
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