In a message dated 97-10-04 00:23:27 EDT, jruwaldt@indiana.edu (James Charles
Ruwaldt) writes:
<< It seems like this question was raised somewhat recently, but I don't
recall what was said, if anything. The differential in my TR6 has always
clunked when I let off the accelerator. The only ways to prevent this are
to release the accelerator very slowly or disengage the clutch at the same
time. It seems that the problem must be in the differential, not in the
mounts, because when the mounts broke, the differential itself bounced,
and the effect was a rattling in the drivetrain. What is most likely
causing this clunking, and what would be the solution to the problem? I
don't care if the answer is a rebuild, because the problem isn't terribly
severe, so I can hold off on it, if the repairs will be expensive.
Thanks in advance,
Jim Ruwaldt
'72 TR6 CC79338U
Bloomington, IN >>
I have had my fair share of clunking problems, myself. And i have found that
there are many things in the rear that could be a possiblity. I put a Ford
302 in a TR 6 and decided to try the triumph rear. to my surprise I found
that the actually differential is extremely strong (yet to brake, knock on
wood). So i personally dont think your problem is in the rear itself.
1) first i would start at the cheapest and easiest place. Simply check all
the nuts and bolts that can be found in the rear. Including the lever arm
shock mounting bolts and connecting links. I would also check the the
differential mounting bolts one more time to make sure. if any of these are
slightly loose tighten them, under acceleration the rear will squat causing a
loose shock to move making the clunking sound.
2) It could be worn mounts but if you are sure these are not the problem then
you dont need to woory about them.
2) the next thing, which i found to be the main cause of most my problems,
was the rear hubs. Since i was delivering so much more horsepower to the
rear, i would squat quite a bit more on acceleration. This extreme squating
is what would brake the hubs. Once the hubs started to brake the clunking
would occur any time i accelerated or did anyting to make the wheel travel up
or down. if they are pretty bad when you push up and down on the rear of the
car you might be able to hear the clunking. But to test the right way jack
to back of your car up and try to wiggle you wheel in and out ( for example
pull on top of the wheel and push on the bottom) there should be absolutely
no movement. if there is i would have to say that is your problem. However
these are not cheap to replace, rebuilt ones are very expensive and I was
unable to find local shops that even touch it, so i found so good ones off of
a TR 6 parts car that ran me $20 apiece not bad.
(But because of the extra power I found that i was constantly causing these
to brake. And i depleted all the used used ones around me, about six or so.
So I learned how to rebuild them. I do not suggest this unless you have to
do this often. I made a couple special tools and you need something like a
10 TON PRESS to seperate the bearing, but once you do the first one they get
pretty simple after that.) I was able to strictly limit the squat by
installing an anti sway bar in the rear with works very nicely. Now its a
happy car.
My quess is that it is your rear wheel bearings or hubs that are the problem.
I dont think you will find anything wrong with the differential -very
strong-
If you have any questions, or want further explantion, or neither of these
were the problem email me at <quaterium@aol.com> and i will be more than
happy to give your more suggestions or answer you questions.
Let me know how it works out
Mike
TR2
TR3
TR4
TR4A
TR250
TR6
Spit
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