Terry Thompson wrote:
>
> Scott,
> I'm sure you'll get better advice on painting your car from other
> people, but I do have a couple of comments for you (having come from
> a hardware background.) Depending on the paint gun you use, the compressor
> you're using may or may not be enough. (size of tank and horsepower
> say very little about a compressor's ability to make a spray-gun perform
> up to snuff.) Most tank compressors work great for air-tools other than
> spray guns and air sanders.
> What you need to look at is the scfm (standard cubic feet per minute) of
> air pressure needed at a specific air pressure (usually 40 psi). A good
> spray gun uses 9.0 scfm at 40psi.
>
> Now, when I was selling compressors, the only ones that worked satisfactorily
> to perform this job were two-stage compressors (compressors that would
> compress the air twice before placement into the tank.) A craftsman 5hp/20gal.
> single stage compressor operates at 8.8scfm at 40psi. Which means, not only
> would your 9.0 scfm/40psi paint gun be getting less cfpm of air but, the
> compressor will run continually (not good for the compressor.)
>
> On the other hand, I've had people come in and say that their small
>compressors
> work fine for spray guns. (one guy even told me he had a compressor with no
> tank that he used to spray paint...yeah, right!) But I don't know what kind of
> spray gun their using, either.
>
> Another thing to consider is that a GOOD paint shop will place the car into
> a room with hot lamps, to ensure quicker & less humid drying conditions for
>the
> drying of the paint (notice, I didn't say curing. Paint cures over weeks of
> time)
> This supposedly makes the paint more durable and bond better to the body
>panels.
> So, unless you plan on buying a couple hundred sun-lamps and decorating the
> walls of your garage with them, it might be worth considering taking it to a
> professional.
>
> I might be way off base on my info. But the people I heard all of this from
>sure
> sounded like they knew what they were talking about.
>
> (Crap-tsman sells a single stage "industrial compressor" for $600 that should
> handle the gun, but then you have to buy the paint ($70+), spray gun ($100+),
> sandblast kit ($50), respirators, tons of masking tape and papers. Not to
> mention
> the hastle of stripping, doing the job, paint fumes, dust, angry neighbors,
> etc.)
>
> IMHO, taking it to a "reputable" body shop IS expensive, but well worth what
> you save in hassle. But wow, wouldn't it sure be great to have all of those
> nifty
> little toys...er....tools to play with?
>
> -Terry Thompson
> '76 Spitfire (rolling restoration)
> (& soon to be '50 Ford F5 rolling restoration)
>
>
> At 04:16 PM 10/2/97 -0400, you wrote:
> >Scions,
> >
> >While we were on the subject of painting, I thought I'd ask my own
> >questions. I'm going to paint my car, and when I say "I", I mean I'd
> >like to do it all by myself. The car needs some bodywork and rust
> >removal. How about a rundown from someone who's done this before on
> >what I need and how I need to do it. I have a 5 hp/25 gallon
> >compressor. Is that big enough? What's a good paint gun, etc.?
> >Bodywork/dent removal tips? I've read lots about this in magazines, any
> >essential books I should read? Real world experience the books don't
> >mention? The car isn't a daily driver, and I have lots of time, so
> >mistakes won't be a big deal. I'm looking at this more like a learning
> >experience, and this car is the test bed to practice on.
> >
> >Awaiting enlightenment,
> >
> >Scott
> >
> >
You can acquire a HVLP system from TIPS in Ohio for less than $600.00
that will do a very professional job. HVLP is high volume low pressure,
it sprays at about 5lbs of pressure which is the same as house painters
have been using for years. In the old days it would take about 1 gal. to
do a all-over job, now with HVLP same car 2 qts., it also drys quickers
because the air is heated in the turbine motor, good system. Also when
painting it depends on the reducer-retarder and dryer you use !!
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