Scions,
Now, a really innocent (ie stupid) relay question:
You may remember a problem I had after renovating the
dash and steering column on my 74 TR6; the engine would start
but would not run when the ignition key was turned to the "run"
position. The ballast resistor would also get very hot.
Thanks to Tom O'Malley and Dan Masters for their help in trying
to track this problem!
I *think* I may have found it. Looking at the starter relay, it was
wired:
C1 W/R & W/Y W=White
C2 N & N R=Red
C4 N=Brown
W1 B Y=Yellow
W2 W/O O=Orange
B=Black
Upon inspection, I moved the W/Y lead to the C4 terminal, changing it to:
C1 W/R
C2 N & N
C4 W/Y
W1 B
W2 W/O
And the car now starts and runs, because the W/Y wire was on the
incorrect terminal (duhhh, I guess I pulled the W/Y off when dismantling
the nearby collapsing steering column - DPOs-r-us!).
My question is, the Drivers Handbook suggests that the wiring should be:
C1 W/R
C2 N & N
C4 W/Y
W1 W/O
W2 B
Note that my W1 and W2 terminals are reversed with respect to the
Handbook wiring diagram. Is this OK to this on
a relay? Should I swap them around to match the Handbook?
I understand how a relay works, but dont know details such as this.
If you have come this far, I will ask one more question, because I am
not out of the woods yet. I still have a wiring problem. When I
kill the ignition, or turn the ignition key from "off" to "run",
I can hear a "pop" that originates in the distributor cap. I suspect
it is arcing. This happens no matter what the position of the rotor
arm. What is this, and what might it be due to? The car seems to
run fine, but I certainly dont like the sounds of this! I am running
a Pertronix EI, new cap and rotor.
Thanks in advance!
Shane Ingate in San Diego
|