I've had excellent results using urethane rack mount bushings.I use two
small wooden blocks, one against the mount and the other against the
flange on the rack, pressed together by a C-clamp to get the mounts as
close to the flange as possible. Never had any trouble getting the plate
under the frame crossmember to fit "in" to make contact with the frame.
Good luck,
Jim Davis
Fortson, GA
'75 TR6 CF38690UO
'75 TR6 CF37325U
On Tue, 17 Jun 1997 07:42:01 +0100 dynamic@transport.com (Pete & Aprille
Chadwell) writes:
>I don't think I've EVER gotten my steering rack mounted properly on my
>car,
>and I'm hoping to learn some tricks from the collective wisdom of the
>list:
>
>I know that there is a special tool that is used to spread the rack
>mountings apart. Supposedly, you spread the mountings and then
>tighten up
>the U-bolts. Well, I once had a friend that had one of these tools,
>but
>when I went to use it, it was immediately apparent that at the very
>least,
>the engine would need to be out of the car in order to use this stupid
>tool. (well, maybe you could do it by just taking out the radiator)
>No
>matter how I approached it, there was no room to swing a wrench on the
>tool
>to spread it apart. So, I uttered a few expletives and just tightened
>up
>the U-bolts. Now, as then, I think that the rack is not mounted
>correctly,
>as there is a certain amount of side-to-side movement of the entire
>rack
>that should not exist.
>
>Does anyone out there know how this can be done? What is the word on
>those
>aluminum block mountings that are available? Is that the only cure?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Pete Chadwell
>
>1973 TR6
>
>
>
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