mjb et al; the rear TR6 studs are slightly longer than the fronts,
in order to pass through the extra thickness of the drum (which
is how I remember).
You *can* knock out the old and simply replace them with new; you
may have to grind a small amount off the edge of the base to
do the fronts without removing the top hat. Folks that are going
to be stressing these heavily (read racing or autocrossing)
might want to reduce the base diameter (especially of the rear)
to provide a better seating surface - the TR6 studs have a larger
base diameter and thus don't fully pull into the hole in the hub.
(Gee, Mark, sounds like something you could knock out on your
lathe.)
I usually install these by pulling them tight with an old lug nut,
a couple of appropriately sized washers (an oversize one on
the bottom to pass over the enlarged section) and my impact
wrench set on its lowest setting. That way I don't end up using
the wheel to pull against, and I'm *sure* that they're properly
seated before installing the wheel.
(Say, who's the VTR vehicle rep for the narrow chassis cars? This
could be one of your articles!)
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