Having obtained a price quote for the stripping of a TR3 from Redi Strip, I
did a little research on the internet.
The prices quotes were as follows:
Body $950.00
Front Fender $95.00 (2)
Rear Fender $75.00 (2)
Trunk $75.00
Hood $100.00
Door $60.00 (2)
Frame $400.00
The total of the above is $1950.00 and then you need a paint job... #:-(
Back to the internet,
I found a page entitled "The Electrolytic Rust Removal FAQ",
authored by Ted Kinsey at
http://acheron.watson.ibm.com/~clarke/woodwork/electro.html
It contains a lot of good intelligence about the enemy (rust).
I am including a small portion of the FAQ here, but, you should visit Ted's
page and read "the rest of the story":
Where did this method come from?
Electrolysis is a standard technique in the artifact restoration
business. I wrote this up for the Chronicle of the Early American Industries
Association a few years back. Most of the tool collectors around here use it:
What do I need?
A plastic tub; a stainless steel or iron electrode, water and washing soda
(NOT baking soda!!) and a battery charger.
About a tablespoon of soda to a gallon of water. If you have trouble locating
the washing soda, household lye will work just fine. It's a tad more
nasty--always wear eye protection and be sure to add the lye to the water (NOT
water to lye!!!) The solution is weak, and is not harmful, though you might
want to wear gloves.
How long does the solution last?
Forever, though the loosened rust will make it pretty disgusting after a
while. Evaporation and electrolysis will deplete the water from the solution.
Add water ONLY to bring the level back.
What about the iron electode?
The iron electrode works best if it surrounds the object to be cleaned, since
the cleaning is "line of sight" to a certain extent. The iron electode will be
eaten away with time. Stainless steel has the advantage (some alloys, but not
all) that it is not eaten away.
How do I connect the battery charger?
THE POLARITY IS CRUCIAL!! The iron or stainless electrode is connected to the
positive (red) terminal. The object being cleaned, to the negative(black).
Submerge the object, making sure you have good contact, which can be difficult
with heavily rusted objects.
Ted also provided his E-Mail address: kinsey@uno.cc.geneseo.edu
John Runge
greentr3@postoffice.ptd.net
58 TR3A (some rust) :-(
61 TR3A (all rust) :-(
also some middleaged US and Japanese hardware not worth mentioning (yet)
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