Hi Alan,
What you should do is NOT do is plug the bypass... rather get an original
Smith's thermostat, which cuts offf the bypass when the engine gets to
temperature. The bypass diverts water so that the engine will come to
temperture sooner. If you plug the bypass, the engine will take foever to warm
up. With the bypass wide open (as most folks run them) you run the risk of
overheating because you're only getting 70% cooling capacity. Some have had
luck with constricting the bypass to about 3/8 inch... slows the flow, and the
car still heats up, albeit slowly.
The Smith's thermostats are available... check swapmeets, like Carlisle (sorry,
two weeks ago). They are available... keep looking.
I went two steps further with my TR4... I replaced the original long neck
radiator with one from my '65 parts car, and I replaced the fan with a 6-blade
fan (again from the parts car). At idle in 95 degree heat, the car just gets to
the high end of "normal".
Good luck...
"And to think, it all started with a tractor!"
Don Sforza dsforza@megahits.com KA1WV
1963 TR4 Connecticut Triumph Register CT16707L
----------
> From: camhi@symbol.com
> To: Dsforza
> Subject: Bypass hose
> Date: May 21, 1997 8:10 AM
>
> Hello all,
>
> I have another question for everyone. This is becoming a daily event.
> I'll have to bring donuts next time. I must say that the advice I get is
> top notch so here is my latests question:
>
> I have been told that I need to plug up the bypass hose on my '65 TR4
> when I replace the current thermostat with a new one. Apparently, the
> water flows too fast and does not provide adequate cooling.
> Can anyone explain this and also(more importantly) can anyone comment on
> how to plug this hose. Is it the hose that gets plugged or maybe the
> thermostat housing or some other do-dad.
>
> Also, is there a funky way of pulling the valve cover that I am not aware
> of? I removed the two bolts and washers but am having a difficult time
> lifting off the cover. I do not want to try and pry it off and I'm
> afraid to rap it lightly with a rubber mallot. Any advice?
>
> Thanks in advance for all the future help on this.
>
> As a follow up on my previous radiator problem, I went to a dedicated
> radiator shop and had my leaky radiator boiled, fixed and painted. They
> also did my heater core. Both were done for $65 total. Not bad,
> cosidering what the three big guys(Moss, Vicky B, TRF, etc) wanted for a
> new one. Thanks for all the really helpful information.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan Camhi
> TR4
>
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