It sounds to me like they are way to lean. Try checking to make sure they
have the right needles in them. then go through and see if the shafts are
loose. The seals may be good but if there is air getting in through the
shafts that can cause problems. An easy way to check is to spray some
starter fluid at the point where the shaft goes through the housing. And
check those diaphragms even the new ones are know to have holes in
them...of the two new diaphragms I got 1 had a hole in it. From an unnamed
parts supplier... also check for leaks between carbs and manifold that
could also pose a problem.
Good Luck
Aaron Johnson
72 TR6 CC84967
I'll have a set of Strombergs for sale here in about a month, after I
completely rebuild them.... :)
----------
> From: Ken Streeter <streeter@sanders.com>
> To: libertyc <libertyc@erols.com>
> Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: TR6 carb question (long)
> Date: Wednesday, April 16, 1997 2:05 PM
>
> libertyc wrote:
> > So, now I am almost positive it is carb related.
>
> > Here's why I believe that is the case: I was able to heavily restrict
> > (with my hands) the amount of air going into the carb intakes and get
it
> > to run much better. The rpms would raise from 800 to approx 2000, and
> > miss would almost disappear.
>
> Hmm... I may be missing something, but the only reasons I can think
> of that the air pull would be drastically less in one carb than
> the other, would be either the throttle butterfly valves are
> open widely disparate amounts (throttle linkage mis-set), or one
> of the carbs has a major vacuum leak.
>
>
> Random possible ideas follow:
>
> Have you tried balancing the airflow between the carbs? To do
> so, you'll need to loosen the throttle linkage between the carbs.
> (When you rebuilt them, was the linkage disconnected and then
> balanced when reconnected?) For more info on balancing
> the airflow, see http://www.vtr.org/maintain/carbs.html
>
> Check both carbs for torn air valve diaphragms.
>
> When the carbs were rebuilt, did you disassemble the temperature
> compensators? Could these have been taken apart in a prior
> rebuild? If these are radically mis-set, you will get a big
> air leak. Instructions on setting these can be found at
> http://www.vtr.org/maintain/temp-compensators.html
>
> Do the air valves move *very* freely up and down within the
> carbs? If you had inadvertantly swapped these in the rebuild,
> one could be tight, and quite resistant to moving. Same goes
> for inadvertantly swapping carb covers. Do both carbs have
> damper oil in them? Are the damper rods straight? Do they
> seem to work correctly? The above can questions can be
> readily checked with the air cleaner off, and engine off.
> Lift the air valve with a finger, and ensure that they resist
> upwards flow, but drop back down quickly.
>
>
> The above ideas are about all I have. I had a really
> nasty problem to debug with misses under load when the
> engine was partially warmed up. They turned out to be
> the result of a broken throttle spindle coupling, which
> had about 30 degrees of play when turned in one direction,
> but not the other. The result of this was that the front
> carb butterfly would open about 30 degrees more than the
> rear carb butterfly. This would only cause a major problem
> on my rich-mixture TR6 when the engine was under load,
> partially warmed up. (It would be fine cold, or hot, but
> miss occasionally after about 10 minutes of running when
> pressed.)
>
> --ken
>
> '74 TR6 Daily Driver, registered, inspected, insured, and
> ON THE ROAD AGAIN TODAY!
>
> ...looking forward to 31 consecutive "British Car Weeks"
> til Thanksgiving!
>
>
> --
> Kenneth B. Streeter | EMAIL: streeter@sanders.com
> Sanders, PTP2-A001 |
> PO Box 868 | Voice: (603) 885-9604
> Nashua, NH 03061 | Fax: (603) 885-0631
|