Joseph Schneider wrote:
> Joe
Maybe you need to read the whole message before you go off. I've used
this method with many engines that have sat unused for long periods of
time. If the engine was in any kind of fair condition when it was put up
it will usually come out runnable as is with only light polishing of the
cyl. walls. I would recommend insp. and rebuild anyway of course but
compression and other tests can now be done to help determine wether to
procede at all.
Bill
"I have kids at home that don't listen either"
78Spit
80Wedge
> (snip)
> >Load down the cylinders with "Marvel
> Mystery Oil" keep covered, leave several days. When you come back start
> by applying mediumm force to the crank
> (snip)
> I wonder whether you're not making it harder for yourself by trying to
> break it loose by turning the crankshaft
> assuming you're going to rebuild anyway, why not use the Marvel's, remove
> crank (and un-bolt the rod big ends) put a 2x2" piece of wood on top of the
> piston and hit it with a hammer progressively harder until it breaks loose
> (try to keep force near the edge of the piston, you're less likely to
> perforate/fracture it and damage the cylinder)? you ought to replace
> pistons anyway, you'll probably have a better crank to have reground after
> this, the block will be bore-able or maybe even hone-able and you'll
> probably have 4 intact rods (for replacement of both end bearings) and you
> can worry about the valve train separately
> Joe
>
> Joseph R Schneider, MD, PhD
> Associate Professor of Surgery, Northwestern University Medical School
> 100 Burch, Evanston Hospital, 2650 Ridge Ave, Evanston, IL 60201
> voice: (847) 570-2565 fax: (847) 570-2899 e-mail: joe-schneider@nwu.edu
> world wide web page: http://pubweb.acns.nwu.edu/~jschneid/JRS.HTML
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