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TR6 Dash/steering wheel

To: streeter@sanders.com, triumphs@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: TR6 Dash/steering wheel
From: DANMAS@aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 17:08:59 -0500 (EST)
Ken:

You asked about redoing your steering column, and replacing your dash pads.

I have a couple of sugestions:

Dash pad replacement. This is a very easy one day or less job. 

1) obviously, mark every thing as you remove it so you will know where it
goes later.

2) you don't have to remove the metal fascia panel, but, if you do, note the
position of the upper edge with respect to the body. The holes for the screws
holding the panel in place are slotted, so to save a lot of fiddeling later,
adjusting it in and out, remeber where it was to start

3) while you have the gauges out, I highly recomend taking the glass out of
them and cleaning it. I repaired my speedo about 6 years go, and cleaned the
glass while it was apart. It looked like a new one, and made the others look
so shabby, that I cleaned them too. You won't believe how much better the
dash will look! Virtually all the gunk that makes the gauges look faded is on
the inside of the glass.

You will note three little tabs holding the bezel in place. Very carefully
bend them out until you can twist and remove the bezel. The glass will now
come out without disturbing the internals. The factory used some kind of
black sealer, which will be dried out by now and crumble when you remove the
bezel. A silicon sealer will work OK, but I just put mine back without. That
was 6 years ago with no problems.

Steering column

If you are like most, the steering wheel is too close to your chest for
comfort. It can be pushed toward the dash by 2-3 inches while you have it
apart to cure the wobble.

The shaft from the steering wheel is hollow. A smaller shaft is inserted
within this shaft, and is splined where it goes onto the flexible coupling.
There is a slot in the outer shaft, and a flat spot on the inner shaft. A
clamp goes around the outer shaft, and holds the inner in place. (This is
readily apparent when looking at the actual setup).

Just loosen the clamp, undo the bolt that holds the inner shaft in the
flexible coupling, and slide the inner shaft up enough to remove the spacer
tube, making note of how the splines match up. Put the inner shaft back in
place, slide the entire steering setup (hollow shaft and outer column)
forward to suit, and tighten every thing up.

I think you will be much more comfortable with this setup (most people that
have seen mine seem to think they would like it that way) If not, it is an
easy matter to undo later.

Just my $0.02 worth.

Dan Masters,
Alco, TN

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