Hello list,
I've been following with much concern, the discussion about which
REPLACEMENT rod bolts to use during a TR6 engine rebuild. I say concern,
because I've just completed buttoning up the bottom end of my first ever
engine rebuild, and I simply re-used the original rod bolts after cleaning
them and applying some locktite thread sealer. I torqued them down to spec
without incident and never considered for a moment using NEW fasteners.
Have I missed something important here??? Could someone please enlighten
me. I gone to great expense to rebuild this engine and spent a
considerable amount of time. I sent my camshaft from my home in Canada
down to Crane in Daytona Beach to be re-profiled/re-ground (hotter than
stock). I've converted the head to a no lead head with hardened seats...new
bronze guides...new valves... new rockershaft. The engine is still on the
stand in my workshop...if I need to change these bolts I can do it with
relative ease. Are new rod bolts really necessary, and why?
On an unrelated subject, It is my intention to replace my ZStromberg CD 175
carbs (yuck)...with a pair of recently aquired 2" HD8 SU carbs. BIG MAMA
JAMA'S I've seen this conversion done on one other TR6. I've been led to
believe that I will see improvements in performance when properly tuned.
My question is, has anyone else ever tried this conversion, and if so what
results were achieved?
Does anyone have any idea which needle profile would be appropriate for
this application? I don't know for sure, but the carbs probably came into
this country on a big Healy or an E type Jag. They were last installed on
a Datsun 240Z which is also a straight six engine similar in size to the
TR6.
Thanks in advance.
Paul Lacroix
Ontario Canada
1973 TR6
|