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Re: Clutch Master & Slave

To: Kdoc111@aol.com
Subject: Re: Clutch Master & Slave
From: rgb@exact.com
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 07:48:02 1996
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
> buying both a new master and slave cylinder

Its the material of the bore and the usage that matters.  The
slave seems the weak link due to the massive travel, its made of
cast iron...  Its usually pitted slightly and doesn't rebuild
well - buy a new one (TRF one needs the edges filed slightly,
don't follow the instructions that suggest I modify the bracket,
you've got to be kidding me...)

The master is aluminum and as such rebuilds nicely, I use
a 3M scratch pad cut 2x the diameter and silicon brake fluid,
plus the dremel tool to polish it.  If the rod hole is really
elongated, you should have it weld filled and re-drilled.

>Slave Cyl. is connected to the bottom hole

Should be the middle hole

I replace all the clevice pins as well.

I pull the slave bracket from the trans after reassembly, filling
with fluid and stomping the pedal a few times.  Place the rod on
a hand cleaner can with the cylinder vertical, push down on the
cylinder till bubbles stop and tighten the screw.
Not only is this a "one" man effort, but avoids the problem with
some of the slaves not bleeding completely.

Always use DOT 5, whenever I rebuild a subsystem!  Label the lid!

Roger

--
-----------------------------------------------------------
Roger G. Bolick, rgb@exact.com, (512) 794-9567, FAX 345-2879

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