On Fri, 11 Oct 1996, SCOTTC COATES wrote:
> My horn will occasionally buzz when
> I turn on my head lights (the kids love it, but I could do
> without). So ... which one is shorting?? The horn or
> the lights or the switch?? I believe there' been some
> lively discussion on the topic of Clear Hooters
> switches. Should I replace switch (it looks new but
> who knows) Can I (should I, will I) install ground wires
> to the headlights (or horn or both)??
Forgive me -- I've forgotten exactly what model we're talking about here.
But if we're talking about any Triumph using the Herald-style steering
column, with some sort of light switch on the column (main/dip beam,
overall lighting control, etc.), I'd be checking out every bit of wiring
in and around the column for possible shorting or incorrect connections.
These connectors are not always easy to follow through the wiring
diagrams, and if someone's been in there in the past....?????
> Note: I have also promised myself each winter that I
> will replace all the wiring and make the darn thing right
> once and for all. Question: is it worth it?? I'd
> appreciate hearing from someone whose done the
> dirty deed, and whether it solves all problems. I
> suspect the design is the problem and re-wiring will
> help, but not solve. And I think I saw wiring harnesses
> going for $229 - what a good price and where??
Question you need to ask yourself (and then answer): is the wiring BAD,
as in frayed, absurdly patched and spliced, fried, oven roasted,
carelessly tapped into, dried and brittle, cut with a chain saw then
super-glued back together? Those would be good reasons for replacing the
harness.
A new harness will solve all your problems if a: everything is connected
as it should be and b: everything you connect TO is ok.
Before you write the check, assess the harness you have. If it looks to
be intact, try as best you can to connect everything the way it was
intended to be connected (look at the books, check an original car, ask
friends, etc.), and while doing this, do your darndest to undo anything
that shows signs of DPO butchery. For example, replace that wrapped wire
held with a four-pound glob of solder with the proper "Lucar" (spade)
connector, take the sheet metal screws out of the fuse box and replace
them with the correct Lucas 17 amp continuous/35 amp fuse (or whatever is
appropriate for your car), unwrap the green "racer's tape" and make a
proper splice of wires -- whatever it takes.
If your car needs rewiring completely, by all means buy a good harness
and be prepared to spend a lot of time. The time will be well spent, but
try what I said above before you commit yourself to $200-300 and possibly
5-25 hours of work that only you and your chiropractor will truly appreciate.
--Andy
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Andrew Mace e-mail: amace@unix2.nysed.gov *
* *
* Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *
* Man: Well, no... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, *
* Triumph Herald engine with wings. *
* -- The Cut-price Airline Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
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