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RE: Re: Incorrect TR4 radiator wanted (was Spit Stuff)

To: Triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Re: Incorrect TR4 radiator wanted (was Spit Stuff)
From: PiJay@t-online.de (Peter Juergens)
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 96 12:55 +0100
>>>>>>>><<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
In a message dated 96-09-23 13:12:31 EDT, you write:

>it' not a direct fit, but we use it on racing and I use it on street:
>>>>>a (forgive me) Rabbit Diesel radiator, complete with bolt on fan<<<<
>It worked fine this summer, especially with my caravan behind the TR !

How much of a "not a direct fit" is it?  I'm willing to do most anything to
keep this car cool, but don't want to butcher it in the process...
>
>PS What does the EP behind your TR 4 mean, ENDED PROJECT ?

I wish... It means class "E" Prepared for autocrossing (gymkhana in some
places, "cone racing" in others, mostly Alabama)
>
>>>>>>Only the fastest toy wins!<<<<<
>
Just my luck, I've been playing "whoever has the most toys when he dies,
wins".

Don Marshall
Jacksonville, Fla

<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

Well Don,
where to start?
I try to tell you what I did or bought.

- radiator, Rabbit Mk2 Diesel, no radiator cap nor ventilation joint. My rad. 
has 
  got the in/outlet both on the right side...try to get one with both on the   
  left!  >>>scrapyard, cheap<<<
                               
- compensation container, VW, to suit your requirements, i.e. place,space ...
  should have 2 joints, ventilation 6-8mm and back flow 15-20mm
  >>> see above<<<

- handmade brackets, 3 or 4, depends on radiator type, to attach it to the     
  original frame mountings and additionally to the chassis close to the horn    
 
  mountings >>>easy, scap material>>>

- some universal hoses (you have to figure out the diameters)
  >>>mine are US ones, should be no problem<<<

- once bought the radiator, hold it in place just behind the TR front valance.
  do some measuring and make your brackets.
  (now you discover the big difference: genius british engineneers placed a     
 
  vertical mounted radiator behind a horizontal slotted valance. Oh Boy! ;-) )
  
- you can use the old pipe. Weld or solder a small piece of pipe rectangular 
into 
  it, to make a t-piece. Use a pipe with nearly the same diameter as the back   
 
  flow joint on the com. container. I also soldered a nut into,too, to maintain 
  the use of the old drain tap.

- for ventilation, I used the threaded part of a 90° grease nipple. Drilled out 
 
  the portion where the grease gets in and replaced it with a 8mm copper pipe,  
 
  3cm long soldered into. This nipple is srewed into the thermostat housings 
top.

- now the interconnections:
  The pipe is located behind the bottom of the radiator, from left to right!
  It is connected to the waterpump housing on one and to the lower rad. port on 
  the other side. Additionaly the back flow port from the compensation 
container 
  is connected there too.
  Connect the upper rad. port to the thermostat cover and place a small hose 
  between the top of the thermostat cover and the comp.cont. and that's it, 
  nearly.

I hope my double dutch is a bit understandable and helped you a bit further! 

BFN   Peter
                             _____ 
Peter Juergens   -- -  -    / <>  \   __,@_\____    
PiJay@t-online.de  - ---    '--0--'~~'--0-----0->     
Dortmund/Germany
´62 TR4 daily        (with special thanks to Bob Sykes)

>>>>>Only the fastest toy wins!<<<<<

PS Forgot something: I used the thermostat for highest temp setting available 
and
fan thermo switch lowest temp available. That was in  order to get both into 
the 
temparature region switching/regulating.

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