My clutch slave gave out last week.
Of course, it was a Sunday at the local mall
Of course, no store in the mall sold brake fluid (thinking I might just refill
the
master after every few shifts)
Of course, that last idea didn't work (even though I found a way to get fluid)
Of course, I just had to inspect/clean the slave guts, and pulled the rod to
the clutch.
Oh, yeah, of course it was raining!
Anyhow, I did get home, towed behind the wife's Aerostar......
Keep reading, you're almost to the question....
Ordered new slave (inside of old one was corroded), and what the heck, got a
new master
while I was on the phone to TRF (all in stock, lucky me). Three days later,
whilst
installing slave, got a nasty surprise when the back end (bleeder) of the
cylinder was
just a tad too large to fit the mounting bracket. My 4" grinder didn't fit in
the hole,
the Dremel was on loan, so spent 1/2 hour fileing the sucker (wish TRF
mentioned this
when I called, would have saved some frustration, but that's what LBCs are all
about,
eh?). Hindsight says I could have filed the cylinder, but naaaah, maybe not a
good
idea. I bled the system (no air bubbles), reinstalled the rod, got good
distance when
pedal was depressed, but....
Your getting closer to the question: I followed Bentley's advice and put the
rod in the
center hole, and couldn't shift into any gears (except reverse, if I did it
reeaall
slow). Tried the top hole, same results, so went to the bottom, and had no
problem
shifting to any gear. If I remember correctly, before me panic disassembly at
the mall,
it WAS in the bottom hole all along.
THE QUESTION: Does this indicate that my pin on the clutch shaft is broken, but
not
enough (yet) to cause a no-drive condition? Clutch doesn't feel mushy, and
there's no
problem shifting. Are there any other ways to tell if the pin is broken, other
than
transmission removal? I'm planning a 400+ mile drive next weekend and hate to
be stuck
out in the hills of PA, getting towed behind a team of horses......
Thanks,
RickO
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