>
>Okay, I almost give up ! (A few swear words ...). I replaced the rear mail
>oil seal, plus all the added goodies "While I'm at it...". I then cleared up
>enough of the oil leak(s) to find the secondary leak, the timing chain cover
>oil seal. Fixed that. Yup, I really fixed it good... dry as a bone !
>
>BUT ! Now yet another leak has reared it's ugly head (or should I say drip).
>Although not that bad, it p-ss's me off ! I cleaned everything up, drove it,
>parked it with paper underneath to trace the dropplets.
>
>It seems the oil is collecting between the top of the flared out lip of the
>oil pan and the bottom of the block (the out side edge of the pan gasket),
>and then finding the best path down. AND, it is odd that a certain number of
>oil pan bolts have oil on the bottom of them and others don't (all at the
>front of the oil pan). IS IT POSSIBLE, for oil to leak down around the
>bolts, sneek between and through the oil pan gasket, down and around the
>head onto the floor ? I put on a new pan gasket, coated (well) with some
>good gasket cement when I put the pan back on after replacing the rear main
>oil seal (I had to pull the rear main seal, which meant the pan had to come
>off etc etc) Would new bolts help, or perhaps some plumbers teflon tape ?
>
>Thanks for any input !
>Pat Leask
>pleask@mailhost.wlc.com
>Victoria B.C.
>
>
>
Hi Ya' Pat,
Gee, I can't imagine a 4 WITHOUT an oil leak.
Had the same problem with the valve cover. It seemem to have been
overtightened and caused the lipp to roll slightly upward. I had limited
success at trying to straighten it. Had more success with adding a second
gasket but that didn't last long either. Final solution was the aluminum
finned cover from TRF. Came with proper hold down nuts. Be sure to
install rubber gasket under washer and nut.
When you get this leak stopped, the push rod tubes will start leaking,
FROM THE BOTTOM>
Good luck
Best Regards,
Tony R.
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