GBSimcoe@aol.com writes:
> 1) Just replaced a faulty oil pressure gauge, and am now curious as to what
> the Oil pressure should read. As far as we know the engine has never been
> reworked. (1974 - 90,000 miles or maybe 190,000 miles :-)
>From my experiance around TR6's, here's what I've seen. These numbers
shouldn't be taken as gospel, but can be used as reference points.
New engine Well Loved engine Tired engine Dead engine
COLD idle - 90+ COLD idle - 50 COLD idle - 25 COLD idle - 0
COLD 3000rpm - 100 COLD 3000 - 70+ COLD 3000 - 40 COLD 3000 - 0
WARM idle - 35 WARM idle - 20 WARM idle - 10 WARM idle - 0
WARM 3000rpm - 70 WARM 3000 - 50 WARM 3000 - 30 WARM 3000 - 0
Basically, if you are seeing 50-70 psi on a hot engine while running,
you are in good shape. If you are getting 20psi at idle, then things
are still getting lubrication, so you're ok. Remember that the weight
of the oil will change these numbers a bit, so if you're running
10W40, and things seem a bit low, switch to 20W50. Running with a
different oil weight will help the cold numbers significantly, but
will only help the WARM numbers slightly. Also, pulling the oil pan
and replacing the connecting rod bearings can help oil pressure
significantly, espcially if you have a low oil pressure at idle on a
hot engine. Low oil pressure doesn't mean a complete rebuild is in
order as long as you have good compression.
> 2) Given the low ground clearance, and our lack of a lift - just how in the
> blazes does anyone suggest we get at the Oil/Transmission/and Differential
> plugs and filler plugs to change the fluids (or is there no way without a
> lift)
The diff is a real pain because the fricken exhaust is in the way.
However, what I do is jack the car up at an angle (away from the
filler hole), fill the trans, then lower the car letting the excess
run out. Put the plug in and your done. Having said that, I just
topped of my trans last night on a friends lift. It's MUCH
easier. :-)
> 3) We will be changing out the oil filter to a new adapter with screw on
> filter at the next change (good idea/bad idea ???) - does anyone have any
> thoughts on whether or not to also go ahead and add an oil cooler at that
> time?
Using the oil filter adapter is a GOOD idea. An oil cooler can help
oil pressure readings too, as it keeps the oil cooler, thus keeping
pressures up. Living in the south, it might not be a bad idea for
you. However, if you do install one, I would get one with a
thermostat. This will allow your oil to reach operating temps much
more quickly, which is a good thing. If you really want an oil
cooler, now is the time when you put the adaptor on. The spin on
adaptor without the cooler setup cannot be used with an oil cooler
later.
There is also an external rocker feed oil line which can be purchased
from many big parts houses, such as Moss or TRF. The list thinks this
is a good idea, although I've never run one. I run synthetic oil
(Mobil1) which I feel (read: hope) helps out with top-end/rocker
lubrication.
> 4) Next months project is to replace all the cooling hoses - any tips or
> advice that can be given?
Replace the thermostat and all the heater hoses too. If you've got
all the coolent out of the thing, why not?! Before removing the old
hoses/themostat, be sure to flush the engine well with some kind of
coolent flush. Drain, and have fun.
> 5) Last (and most troubling) has anyone replaced their gear shift gaiter
> with one purchased from Moss recently.
Can't comment on this too much, except that, yes it's a pain in the
*(#&@. :-)
Good luck!
-Scotty
'70 TR6
'75 TR6
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